The Eccentric Duo--Designer duo, Dev R Nil are known for their whimsical designs. Their capricious outfits, which are edgy, quirky yet very chic has breathed freshness into the realm of unisexual fashion

Dev r Nil

Known for their intellectually stimulating plots and distinctively unconventional designs, designer duo Dev R Nil’s work has always had abstinence. Their garments cast out freshness and callow whimsy in the rather stiff-lipped styling trade.

Tell us about your latest collection…

‘Love is a war for lives’ is the tagline for our latest collection, which was unveiled at the Will’s Lifestyle Fashion Week (WLFW) 2014. The love and affection in terms of sculptures, art and literature has now got replaced by rape and vandalism—such is the insecure times that we live in. This collection is a voice to the caged love and freedom of expression. We liberate ourselves from the mind and heart and celebrate life as God meant it to be.

Dev r Nil, WIFW A/W'14

What colours and prints will be in vogue this season?

Monochromes, surface embroideries, harsh geometric prints and few deliberately developed ‘unfinished’ prints will be interestingly mixed and layered to tell a story of forbidden love this season. The look that’s severe, cold yet vulnerable with its softness is what we should seek for in the upcoming months. The indifference of the grey and monochromes will be warmly hugged by turquoise blue, cherry red, canary yellow and mint blue.

What textiles, textures and silhouettes will be creating buzz in the fashion circuit?

Interplay of softness of chiffon and georgette juxtaposed with severity of leather and the formality of the special fabric developed with metallic thread embroidery will be in rage. The patterned prints of roses and scattered roses, the geometric monochromatic prints, the female form incorporated and disintegrated ‘love’—all will come together in unison.  The point of focus comes alive in the signature ‘Dev r Nil’ prints and the cutworks and appliqué techniques used on leather and other fabrics will create magic. Embroidered jackets, coat dresses, shirt dresses, leather tops and double-breasted long jackets keep the look chic and feminine. A special accessory line of bags, hold-alls, clutches, messenger-boy bags and man bags add to the story of search of freedom from the censorship imposed by the society, peer group, religion and more.

What according to you are the topmost fashion trends this year?

We believe wearing non-labeled clothing is a top trend for the year—clothing that will not scream-out-loud a label, rather will compliment one’s personality. Trends come and go but finding classics, is the toughest.

What are your views on unisexual fashion?

As far as unisexual fashion is concerned, we have been creating clothes for our own personal wear, which ends up being preferred by both the sexes. There was no conscious decision of making them unisexual, but the idea of blurring the gender divide through clothing is very powerful in itself. So we continue designing clothes and prints, which obscures these lines.

Dev r Nil, WIFW A/W'14

What is your take on the business dynamics of Indian fashion?

The Indian fashion industry, with its talent, craft, textile and business sense, is luring the international fashion world with a certain sense of vengeance; there’s no denying that the Indian fashion industry and designers have managed to impact the fashion orbit, all across the world. We have not only impressed the world with power, style and sensibility, but the country has a great understanding of the business dynamics of this colossal international industry. All over the world, Indian ethnic designs and materials are considered as a significant facet for fashion houses and garment manufacturers, so you can clearly judge where we stand.

What is your fashion philosophy?

One thing we definitely know is that misery and sadness doesn’t inspire us. Human spirit, happy memories, travel experiences or even inanimate objects like a broken wall with a banyan tree (incidentally that’s the name and inspiration of our first collection) can spark a whole lot of images in our heads. We are affected by daily lives, the socio-economic climate as well as stories, which transport us to a different world all together.

The Designer Who Needs No Introduction--Manish Malhotra's designs and aesthetic values have put him on a pedestal higher than ever. Let's take a sneak-peak into his world of fashion and luxury

Manish Malhotra with Kajol and Karishma Kapoor

From designing for the divas of Bollywood, to decking up real life brides, designer Manish Malhotra has carved out a niche for himself in the topography of fashion and luxury industry in India and abroad. He speaks about his core concepts of building up a luxury brand and how to sustain in a cut-throat competitive world.

What’s the most fashionable Bollywood film till date?

I feel Dil Chahta Hai, Student of the Year and Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani in the last two decades and Pakeezah from the 1970s are some of the most fashionable films produced by the Indian film fraternity.

When did you realise that being a designer is your true calling?

I always knew I wanted to be an artist. The thought of designing came in eventually though.

Tell us about your first break in Bollywood?

My first break in Bollywood happened in 1986 with the movie Swarg.

Madhuri Dixit in Manish Malhotra

Brides or Bollywood – what gives you more creative satisfaction?

They both have equal importance in my life. I am a costume designer and a fashion couturier. I started my career with styling. The movies that I style for are always very character driven, whereas for bridal-wear, I keep the needs of the consumers in mind.  I visualize the woman who will be wearing my outfit while designing my bridal pieces, but in movies it is more character-centric styling, so I have to think of the character and the actor playing that particular role. However, in both the areas I have to be creative. Yes, they are all inter-connected and I always follow my creative instinct, whether it is for styling or designing, everything else falls in place gradually.

You introduced the concept of showstoppers here – what are your thoughts on it? Who’s your favourite showstopper?

For me, it all started with my first collection where my dear friend, Urmila Matondkar was my muse for that show. I started the concept of showstopper very unintentionally in order to bring some element of newness and today it has become a trend, followed by one and all. I think showstoppers in my shows, rather than taking away all the limelight, always add a little more character to my designs.

Where do you think the Indian fashion industry is headed?

The Indian fashion industry today is headed to a great scenario of globalization with Indian styles becoming the new International ramp looks. For example, the admiration for this classic bandhgala is evident worldwide. The bandhgala is one of those few Indian silhouettes that have found international acclaim. Giorgio Armani has been making them for some time now, Canali has come up with the ‘Nawab Jacket’, and the modernised versions by Tom Ford and Paul Smith are helping the brands establish themselves in India.

Manish Malhotra with Kareena Kapooor

What has been the biggest change in the Indian Fashion Industry?

The fashion industry in India has evolved beautifully, particularly in the last 20 years. Boundaries of the industry started to expand, like the West learning that India is glamorous, and that the sari is the most sensuous garment in the whole wide world. Men have now embraced pink overcoming the stereotypical thinking; an anarkali is as stylish as an evening gown. We see a lot of celebrities embracing our Indian culture like the bandhgala Jacket and the sari at various international events. Many such examples tell us the story of an evolving fashion industry.

What advice do you have for designers breaking into the industry?

Just do what you love, be passionate about your work, it will take you places.

The Fashion Goddess--Sonam Kapoor has been charming hearts of millions across the world with her wonderful sense of fashion and style. She calls herself a ‘dramatic dresser’ but it is blanketed elegantly in cloaks of sophistication

In the kingdom of showbiz, actor Sonam Kapoor has been crowned as the queen of fashion. It’s been a phoenix-like rise for her in the Indian film industry--starting from her first appearance in Sanjay Leela Bansali’s Saawariya to films like Aisha, Raanjhanaa, Bhaag Milkha Bhaag and more. Her sense of style is eccentric, rather she personifies the quintessence of experimental fashion. “My sortie into the industry of fashion and glamour has been quite an amazing one. I worked with many designers but so far I have loved most working with my very dear friend Pernia Qureshi. I was introduced to her by my sister and ever since then it’s been a fashion galore for me. Our aesthetic values and understanding of fashion is absolutely in sync; I trust her sense of styling with all my heart,” avers Kapoor.

The diva believes in dressing for nobody but herself. “In the end, it is not for the sake of being ultra-glamourous but being comfy,” she says with a sparkling smile.

This pretty lady is a regular at Cannes and she sets the paparazzi on a roll with her larger-than-life presence. She overwhelms the international media with custom made Dolce and Gabanna gowns; brands like Armani, Prada, Ferragamo, Cavalli and Burberry have become the fashion of the hour with the sultry goddess making them a regular deal.

Fashion quotient:

Being the most adoring connoisseur of fashion and beautiful things in life, Kapoor is a dramatic dresser. “I admire beautiful things and beautiful people. It is such a visual delight to see well-dressed people. Fashion and style is something that I love to cultivate; I read lot of books and magazines; I watch many movies and try to be part of fashion shows to keep myself hooked on to the latest happenings in the world of fashion. Over the years, my sense of styling or shopping for that matter has changed in a much refined way; the more the exposure, the better is the consequence. But what I really believe is that looking beautiful is profoundly related to being fit,” she ushers.

Fashionista’s muse:

“I am pretty gusty when it comes to following trends. I rather set trends and not fit myself into something just because it’s in vogue,” informs Kapoor. Her fashion sensibilities are stimulated by the archetypes of fashion, like, Audrey Hepburn, Alexandra McQueen, Katharine Hepburn and Coco Chanel. “And in India, I love the way Meena Kumari, Madhubala and Sharmila Tagore have expressed themselves in terms of fashion. In contemporary times, I love the way Kalki Koechilin dresses up; she is bold and at the same time she dresses for herself,” she adds.

The shopaholic:

Kapoor loves shopping! And her favourite designers are, Anamika Khanna, Anuradha Vakil, Rohit Bal, Chanel, Alexandra McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano. Not only clothes, the sexy siren has a major fetish for accessories too. “I adore accessories, be it jewellery, shoes, watches, bags, anything at all!” 

She shops from across the world--London, Paris, New York and more. “But my favourite shopping destination is Dilli. You get the best stuff here,” she affirms. When in Mumbai, she loves digging vintage from Bungalow 8. However, Kapoor also indulges in the pleasures of street shopping, especially when in Delhi. “I love buying jewellery and sandals from Delhi,” she states.

Her closet:

The lady says, “My wardrobe is my temple.” She has a walk-in closet, wherein she keeps her most expensive buys to the simplest of stuff with much love. “I cherish my clothes and accessories from the bottom of my heart,” she gushes. However, being the perfectionist that she is, when it comes to proper dressing and maintenance of her ensembles, Kapoor re-shuffles her wardrobe twice a year. “My wardrobe is my haven. But, I don’t like to stash everything together; so I neatly pack stuff and display it in such a way that I can peek at them,” she signs off.

The Closet Staple--The wide-legged pants are making news in the world of fashion. It is indeed a must-have for your wardrobe this season

Fashion’s most loved era, the 70s is back on the streets with wide-legged pants conquering wardrobes of every fashionista. From denims, to satin and khadi, this long, slender, flared up garment is here to stay and how! One could wear this with delicate sheers, crop tops, cropped jackets, etc; also, these pants work with everything from heels to oxfords.

Wide-legged trousers can be gracefully paired with a button-up shirt or a short kurta. Pick a pant that sits well on the hips. The length of the pants is very important; let them just about skim the ground, with the front of your shoe showing.

Look and feel:

These days, flowy palazzo pants and well cut tunics are quite popular in the fashion circuit. Light-weight fabrics like sheer chiffons, georgettes, crepes go well for this style. Monochrome palazzos work best but sometimes playing around with small prints on satins also gives a nice edgy silhouette.

The current fashion weeks saw various versions of the wide-legged pants making a comeback. Designers like Krishna Mehta and Manish Malhotra introduced sharara pants, ghagra pants and palazzos in ethnic printed silks. It did not take long for these to hit the regular market. There is a wide range to choose from. Pick between slightly fitted at the hips to flaring at the bottom.

P.S--depending on the occasion, select the fabrics. For formal occasions, stiff fabrics like suiting materials and woolen fabrics like tweed and hound’s-tooth should be adorned. If you are styling a more casual or informal look, flowy fabrics like georgette, cotton, cotton blends and lighter silks work best. Also, keeping in mind your body type, you must select the style of wide-legged pants. For pear shaped bodies, it's best to stick to pants, which have more flair at the bottom, so that it creates an illusion of a slimmer waist. The flair can be achieved with a bias cut, or with box pleats (which have to be shaped at the hips). For very slim bodies, pants should be better shaped and the flair should be minimum.

Koovs.com

The top tale:

For a casual chic look, a basic tank top tucked in with a waist belt over it, looks fabulous. These pants are very versatile, depending on your body type you could choose from fitted tops and ganjis, to wrap tops, which flatter all body types, or layer with cropped jackets. If you are blessed with a flat tummy, try a crop top. Avoid oversized tops, so you don’t look like you stepped out of bed!

Nonetheless, fitted tops look best if the flair is wide. Razor backs and fitted three quarter sleeved tops suit the look. In case of slimmer pants, you can pair them with waistcoats and tank tops, which needn't be too fitted.

Accentuate with accessories:

Depending on the occasion, zero down upon the accessories. It’s best to underplay the jewellery if it’s a formal setup. Wear a chunky ring or a pair of blobby earrings with a waistcoat to look sophisticated; also, try a flat gold choker with a kurta. For casual occasions, scarves are an amazing option. Also, thin silver bangles in a cluster would brighten up a casual look. but, I would suggest, this season go electric with chunky neck pieces and oversized bracelets. Contrast jewellery in pastels and gold will look very modern and classy. If you want the pants to be the statement, keep the accessories delicate and minimal. Pick between an oversized clutch for the evening or a sling/messenger bag for the day.

Of trending prints:

Prints are always fun to play with. Picking the right cuts and prints according to the body structure can make all the difference. Floral, geometric and small vintage prints are currently in vogue. Also, lay your hands on Aztec prints, animal prints and floral patterns!

For the longest time, we have been seeing our traditional prints like kalamkari, block prints, etc in full-flared pants. Apart from this, even the hound’s-tooth print in woolen, silk, cotton and satin suits various looks. A quirky print like the moustache and camera on brighter bases works magically for someone who wants to make a statement. However, for someone looking to cover their extra pounds, geometric patterns works wonders! Apart from prints, even dip-dye pants look very appealing, but remember it should be a soft colour merge, to add some height; also, it can be a solid colour block for someone taller.

Return of Punk--A look that overtly rebels against superfluous-ness of commercialization is back on the fashion charts with a bang

If you have fierce, understated and a bold sense of individualism, then perhaps going punk is your true fashion calling. This fashion subculture has been explored by the biggest designers ever; be it Vivienne Westwood or Jean Paul Gaultier; the underlying layers of punk elements in their designs have made this daring style statement a rage.

The inception:

Punk fashion is an aftermath of punk rock that came as an intended refutation of the superficial overindulgence and pretense found in conventional music back in the 70s. Known for its anti-materialistic approaches towards dressing, the punk look replicates simple clothing--torn jeans and tees, leather jackets, customised blazers, shirts erratically roofed in slogans, patches and controversial images.

Fendi A/W'13

Accessories often worn by punks are fishnet stockings, spike bands, studded or spiked jewellery, safety pins on clothes (and as body piercings) and heavy kohl worn by both the sexes. Many women took punk as a mean to rebel against the clichéd image of a woman by coalescing subtle and pretty clothes with garments that were well thought-out as masculine; for instance combining a beautiful dress with big, biker boots. “Punk look is all about the attitude, blackness and boldness. Metallic spikes, studded leather attires and neon colours form the vital elements of this style quotient. The best punk attires can be picked up from London. The way punk look has been personified by Vivienne Westwood is simply outstanding,” says designer Nachiket Barve.

Aesthetic vs. accessories:

Punk clothing often employs day-to-day objects for an aesthetic effect. Deliberately ripped clothes are detained together by safety pins or tapes, etc. Other items of accesories include razor blades and chains. “Spikes are incorporated on shoes, on cuffs and often as piercing,” adds Barve. This fashion statement is boldly marked by hand and ear cuffs with a tinge of metallica and bling.

Burberry

The essentials:

There are few steps to get the punk look right, like, getting your hair spiked up, doing the makeup with lots of thick eye liner, wearing studded accessories, getting some tattoos done, pulling off simple clothes blended in an eccentric way and perhaps getting some body piercings. Add on styles would be to don a fishnet stockings or a spiky jacket. Also metal studded accessories like spiked metal bangles and earrings, studded belts and metal cuffs in steel, silver, gunmetal or in iron colour can make one look super punk! Spikes give a dimension to the look and they can be vertical or drop down on the forehead.

Advocator of rural fashion--She is a textile revivalist. From upholding the philosophy of art from rural India to reproducing its artistic taste on her clothes, fashion designer Aneeth Arora is a multifariously talented designer

Aneeth Arora

Her approach towards fashion is instinctive and she would rather call herself an artist than a fashion designer. One of the most talented, young designers on the block, Delhi-based, Aneeth Arora has come a long way in the fashion industry. From witnessing dreary response from the spectators at her very first show in 2007 to opening up her new collection to a choc-a-block hall filled with fashion enthusiasts in 2014, cheering and celebrating her magnificent work, Arora dares to bend genres and yet carve out a niche in the realm of fashion.  

Her silhouettes are classy and understated; her relaxed and untailored approach to layering, capacious yet not overwhelming, casts a vintage look to her garments. Also, her colour palette that mostly comprises of muted hues like pale mustard, white, black, dark blue and beige makes her clothes look all the more sophisticated with powerful, under lying drifts of the rural spirit.

Fashion philosophy: when it comes to fashion, my ideologies are based on the belief that I should be able to emulate whatever I observe around me, which strikes a cord with my fashion sensibilities in a wearable form to people. I travel a lot of rural India and I am a very observant traveler. I try to absorb as much of local aesthetics as I can because I feel rural India is the real trend-setter and its gorgeous whimsicality has been my muse since time immemorial.

Changing consumer tastes: I am a firm believer of the fact that every single person has their very own fashion appreciation pattern. So, my only conscious attempt in the whole dynamics of ‘changing consumer taste’ is to provide clothes to people that will clout them to re-think their perceptiveness. I am not here to alter mindsets; I am just her to make an impact.

Latest on the rack:  My Fall/Winter collection truly lived up to the very essence of the season—for the very first time, every single garment is made of wool. We sourced wool from various corners of India, be it Kashmir or Kulu and the textile was hand-woven.  Also, we tied up with an Italian company to produce hand-made wool jersey for us. The modus operandi of this collection was to keep the tradition of hand-made craftsmanship alive by juxtaposing artisans and artistry from different corners of the world.

Business of fashion: I feel over the period of five years, people have become overtly sensitive towards age-old traditions and crafts of our country; not only in India, but on a global forum too, traditional techniques and art forms are being much appreciated. Since our foray is hand-crafted textiles, this has helped in putting us on a more comprehensive pedestal. This is the perfect time for brands like ours to grow and evolve.

Wearability vs. trends: Péro is all about wearable clothing; so we never really had to struggle to balance trends. We aim at culling out inspirational tales from rural India and portray them in our outfits; so the trends that come out, consequentially are always balanced.

Future plans: I take one day at a time and try to make the most of it. If, you ask me about the next collection, I would say, it’s an ongoing process and we are always working on the ‘next’ collection.

The brand essence: Péro means ‘to wear’ in Marwari. The brand symbolises and celebrates the beauty of traditional, hand-made Indian craft. Every piece that we make is touched by many artisans before they hit the racks. So, each garment is enthused with unique adroitness and taste. The main aspiration is to keep the roots alive.

The Péro woman: A woman who is very sensitive towards what she wears will wear my clothes. She would choose comfort over style and would want to feel the beauty of the garment; she would not pick up a garment just on face-value, but would pick up attires to know the hidden tales behind its birth. She would let the pieces interact with her. She would treat the whole experience in a poetic way.

Source of inspiration: I pick up strands of creativity from everything that I see; it could be good music or great food too. Small things on a rugged road to the torn weave on a road-side beggar—everything around me fills me up with vision and spark.

Favourite designers: I had interned with Abraham and Thakore and I love their take on textiles; the simplicity in their work, which results in procuring amazingly chic outfits, leaves me waiting for their next collection, always! I also look up to Sabyasachi Mukherji; the way he has done is branding is remarkable. Also, his ways of combining techniques is quite noteworthy too. I also admire Rajesh Pratap Singh.

Queen of Quirk--Fashion designer Masaba Gupta has created rage in the industry with her quirky prints, innovative choice of colours and brilliant designs

Alia Bhat in Masaba's creation

Ace designer Masaba Gupta has been the talk-of-the-town for a while now for her out-of-the-box clothes, quirky prints and an explosion of colours that often surface in her outfits.

What inspires you?

This time around my inspiration rooted from the classic Fitzgerald girl, meeting her sporty and edgy side.

Tell us about the cuts and fabrics you incorporated in your pieces…

In my latest collection, I used lots of tissues, ombre, organza, lycra, jersey silk and muslin. We had unconventional cuts mixed with really basic silhouettes like the braided sari with a palazzo pant instead of a petticoat; lots of sheer cover-ups and tiny crop tops with pencil skirts were well applauded too. The basic modus operandi was all about being sensual with an edge.

What is your design philosophy?

My design philosophy is all about being fearless and unapologetic about who you are and what your aesthetic values are.

What new techniques and materials are you using?

Off late we have been doing a lot of experiments with the sari; we had the lycra jumpsuit sari, wherein we put the pleats at the back instead of ahead. We also designed embellished organza sweatshirts and teamed up ribbed necklines on very delicate fabrics. Lastly, we also twisted the traditional Benarasi embroidery in silver and gold.

What does fashion mean to you?

Fashion for me is whatever that is convenient, whatever that gives you joy; it should uplift you and not be taken too seriously! Fashion should be fun.

During your formative years, who has been your muse?

My mother, Neena Gupta has been my muse and source of inspiration since forever.

What is the future of couture in India?

It is going places for sure. People are venturing into a different segment of haute couture besides just bridal. I know it for sure, couture in India is only going to get higher.  

What’s in the pipeline for your fans?

Well, a lot of brand collaborations and innovative ideas are in the pipeline.

Who is your favourite model?

Candice pinto is my most favourite model. She is supremely talented.

Any fashion brands that you really adore?

There are so many; but if I have to name a few, it would be Prada, Burberry, Michael Kors, Diane Von Furstenberg, Sabyasachi and Anamika Khanna.

What fashion trends do you foresee for the upcoming months?

Sheer monochrome and pops of neon will definitely lead the fashion sphere. Also sports are in so, ditch those heels and go crazy with the good old keds.

Tell us about your personal style.

Minimalist is my mantra and I am happiest in black and white.

What was your first design? Do you have any interesting anecdotes in the making of your first piece?

My first design was a patchwork sari. I made it in college and the teachers hated it because they didn’t understand why I had to use colour with black and white, which has now become my USP (smiles).

Best piece of style advice you ever received?

Just be yourself and no clothes can do to you what confidence does.

And what pieces of style advice you happily ignore?

You should follow trends – I choose to ignore this!

Way back when you were a student, what inspired you? How did you decide upon this career?

I was too busy trying to be someone else so it was all a fluke, rather an accidental twist of fate. I was inspired by labour class women and the rest is history.

Any words of wisdom for newcomers?

Just be original. Be a devotee of fashion but always have another love; this industry takes from you as much as it gives you. So embrace life as it comes.

Fashion & society. What’s your insight?

I feel fashion and society cannot function without each other’s presence.