Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week 2014-Day 2

Ashok Goel, Kangana  Ranaut, Anju Modi and Pardeep Goel

Designer Anju Modi opted for ethnic gold from Shree Raj Mahal Jewelers for her show at the India Couture Week 2014 on day 2! Elaborate bridal chokers and kadas in modern designs and earrings in ethnic and traditional gold flaunted the dexterity of Indian craftsmanship and spoke of the lavishness of Indian weddings. Modi creatively paired neck pieces around models’ hair, which added glam to the outfits; these neck pieces can also be worn as kamarbandhs. The intricate work on the fabrics, imperial cuts and stately silhouettes made these bridal-wears a big hit!
 

Noyonika Chatterjee

Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week 2014-Day 2

Nimrat Kaur, Rina Dhaka and Malaika Arora Khan with models

Inspired by the iconography of gota work of Rajasthan, designer Rina Dhaka takes her designs to a whole new level this time at the India Couture Week, day 2! Her outfits look regal with undertones of her matchless aesthetics and soft sensual appeal. In her latest collection, the designer has re-created a new sense of style for the gota patti work, placed delicately, contouring sequined sheers and lace. Her designs surfaced convoluted embroidery elements from Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh, laid lovingly in a lace like manner.

Techniques of zardozi, kamdani, ari and lace and metallic gota have been juxtaposed with tonal beading and soft embroidery to create a saga of romance. Gota patti and zardozi are set against lace backdrop, contrasted by Mughal animal paintings, depicted on fur-lined velvet capes.

Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week 2014-Day 1

Rani Mukherjee at the show

Sabyasachi Mukherjee opened Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week 2014 in association with Logix group at hotel Taj Palace, New Delhi. Kolkata’s wonder boy, Sabyasachi, known for his eclectic mix of grandeur with art in his impeccable creations, left the audience spellbound with sheer luxury and unabashed glamour. The captivating ensembles, rich embroidery work and royal fabrics made this whole experience absolutely celebratory. “I have had a very good association with FDCI and I am very privileged to be starting the Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week again,” smiles Mukherjee.

His khadi and tulle sari, tea dyed and embellished with zardozi, parsi and hand-cut bugle beads was simply brilliant! Other magnificent, eye-catching deigns include, the Gabardine bandhgala and trousers with bullion thread-work detail, embellished with 18 carat gold buttons, the hand-block printed canvas bandhgala, crystal-embellished poplin kurta and gharara paired with khadi and tulle dupatta and the heavily embellished canvas lehenga paired with khadi blouse and pashmina shawl.

Models donning Sabyasachi's designs

Sunil Sethi and Rani Mukherjee with Sabyasachi

Carol Gracias in Sabyasachi

Erika Packard in Sabyasachi

Pia Trivedi in Sabyasachi

A sneak-peak into the luxurious Fall/Winter collection by Snesha Designs

Formed in 2014, Snesha designs is the brain child of Sneha and Shahin, who have taken baby steps into the world of fashion. Their forte lies in contemporary Indian and Western wear with undertones of luxurious prêt coupled with thier distinctive house signature and an inherent Indian-ness that celebrates handcrafted traditions.

 

Their Fall/Winter collection brings forth a symphony of sheer elegance, coupled with femininity and romance. The collection reflects a wonderful melange of gold, tangerine, peaches, hues from the rosy palette, Sufi whites and subtle hints of neon accents. 

The fabrics used are light-weight silks, georgettes, nets, chiffons and muls rich in embroidery and gota work. Simple silhouettes and classic cuts makes this collection stand out. These bright, urban ensembles have a compelling old-world charm to them. Enjoy their luxe tropical-inspired outfits in tangy shades--be it the capes or the stoles, the collection symbolises eddy prints in youthful palettes. So, while you try their pure pashmina capes with detailing on the shoulders, you might also want to pick a pashmina with 3D embroidery work! Capes in silk are also worth a try!

Their creations are chic, glitzy and sophisticated. The cuts and styles speak of sheer hard work and superb craftsmanship. So go on ladies and grab your pick!

The fashion architect--Kiran Uttam Ghosh's designs are beyond pragmatic prêt. With an unconventional urge to create a sense of balance between traditional and modernist quintessence, she constantly thrives to take perfection to newer bounds

Kiran Uttam Ghosh's A/W'14 collection

Kolkata-based designer, Kiran Uttam Ghosh confronts the very notion of categorization. Being present in eight countries, Ghosh’s designs are understated with silhouettes and distinctive textures that snub to be allied by any particular school of fashion philosophy.  Her work emphasises on the metaphysics of detailing, which was imparted to her by her mentor, Jasper Conran. Today, her couture line epitomizes an enduring classic appeal, wherein she casts newer dimensions to all her clothes. 

Tell us about your Autumn/Winter'14 collection…

My Autumn/Winter collection is inspired by Paisleys—Paisleys as embroidered cut-work necks, textures, prints and neck pieces. One can see layered silhouettes that are long and lean, often with shorter fronts and long backs; also, metallic and bling neck pieces have made a mark. The key pieces to look out for are sheer pants with embroidered hem details and cut work armholes. This collection is about separates—to connect with varied generations and to wear on different occasions. For example, a gold pleated wrap jacket can be worn over a sari or over shorts, paired with a tee or with a choli. 

What colours and prints will be in vogue this season?

Metallics, like, gold, bronze and silver will work well adding drama and support to colours like rich red, ivory, deep purple, teal and emerald. As far as prints are concerned, enlarged paisley prints will rule the season. 

What textiles and silhouettes will be creating buzz in the fashion circuit?

Silhouettes that are shorter on the front with longer backs will be trending. Furthermore, vertical paneled pieces with sheer and opaque offsetting each other will be in vogue. As for textiles, I feel pressed pleats in gold, bronze and silver will be hot favourite. Pleats in short colours of teal, deep purple and gold will have a fashion moment too! 

What according to you are the topmost fashion trends this year?

I’m not a trends person at all. I follow what I feel like wearing. I like my clothes to be passed on as heirloom pieces. Nothing makes me happier than a mother telling me how her daughter wore her clothes on her wedding day. Having said that, I think sheer pyjamas with bright traditional embroidered hemlines are a great way to present traditional workmanship with a global silhouette. These can easily be worn with a tee, a shirt or a gherdaar—from evening wear to a mehendi ceremony or a wedding reception.

What are your views on deconstructive silhouettes and unisexual fashion?

Androgyny is my forte. There is nothing like a man’s white shirt on a woman’s petite figure. I love borrowing from a man’s wardrobe. At the same time I love pastels, saris, kurtas and sheers. Being a woman in fashion today is amazing. We can have the best of both worlds.  

What is your fashion philosophy?

Keeping it simple is my mantra. I often see an ensemble and feel I can make five out of one. ‘Edit’ is my favorite word. While I love many layers, I also love when one can wear it as separates. Fashion is one of the few applied arts with a commercial aspect to it. I believe it’s a balance between the two worlds that can make it all come together.  It’s this balance that I strive to achieve. What I present at my show, my buyers and stores should want to buy.

What is your take on changing consumer tastes?

The only 'constant' in fashion is change. At the same time, there are classic timeless pieces that are beautiful and should remain the way they are. It’s the poise between the two that one needs to achieve. 

Replicating Society--Designer Urvashi Kaur believes, fashion is nothing but a mirror to the society, reflecting its nuances in the most honest way

Urvashi Kaur (center)

Fashion designer Urvashi Kaur is known for her sharp interest in various types of fabrics and colours. She yearns to harvest fresh ideas pertaining to the present socio, economic and cultural status of the contemporary society through her designs. She thrives on the zest to constantly experiment with different facets of fashion by bending genres; and the final outcomes are always enthralling.

Motivated to revitalize the country’s effervescent textiles, Kaur blends the spheres of ethnic with the modern, which leads her to earn critical applause and a venerated league of clientele for her designs. She is also known for developing relationships with many NGO’s by generating and offering employment opportunities to women and endorsing the improvement of handloom fabrics.

What inspires your designs?

My last collection, titled 'Semah' has been inspired by the three unified states of human nature — the mind (as knowledge and thought), the heart (through the expression of feelings, poetry and music) and the body (by activating life). It is Sufi in its deepest of essence.  

What is your design philosophy?

My design beliefs are all about thinking globally but acting locally.

What does your creation reflect?

My creations in this collection reflect the Sufi traditions across the globe through its art and culture. 

What new techniques and materials are you using?

The techniques in this collection involve engineered placements of twisted tie/dye that evoke Bandhej. Mosaic styled geometric patterns derived by hand block prints paired with pleating techniques also surfaced in my work. I have also used shell buttons and wooden beads on the versatile separates with touches of volume and movement in drapes that set a dramatic rhythm.

What does fashion mean to you?

Fashion to me means evoking a sense of simplicity and still being stylishly smart that catches the eye without trying too hard. My collections could be worn by anybody as it has fluidity, movement and ease in it. 

How has the Indian fashion industry shaped your outlook towards fashion?

More than the fashion industry, it is the indigenous handlooms, weaves and textiles of India that have inspired me, along with numerous techniques that find expression in our traditional costumes such as hand tucking, rouching, tie and dye, block printing etc. The silhouettes in my collection are also inspired from Indian traditional silhouettes but have been modified for a more universal market.

What’s in the pipeline for your fans?

Many prominent online collaborations such as ‘Pernia’s pop up’ and tie ups with new stores in India and abroad such as ‘anthropology’ are in the pipeline for my fans .The brand is increasing its presence pan-India as well as in the international daises like in Japan and the US. We are also increasing our presence in the Middle East.

Who is your favourite model?

It is very difficult to name one favorite model. However I would like to name a few like, Preeti Dhata, Laxmi Rana and Sonalika Sahay.

Any fashion brands that you really adore?

The international brands I adore are Mary Katrantzou, Serbian label Roksanda Ilincic and Peter Pilotto. I admire the French label Celine (Céline Vipiana) and Stella McCartney too.  Greco-Austrian Marios Schwab, Vivienne Westwood, Roland Mouret and Alexander McQueen are my favourites too. In India I am a fan of Rajesh Pratap, Payal Pratap, Abraham and Thakore, Pankaj and Nidhi, Pero, AM:PM, Cell Design and Gaurav Jai Gupta to name a few.

Tell us about your personal style.

Eclectic is the word that describes my personal style most aptly.

What fashion trends do you foresee for the upcoming months?

For the upcoming months the fashion trends I foresee are prints, pleats, sheer, checks and stripes, whites and minimalism.

Who wears your collection?

My collection is very commercially viable as it is affordable and easily wearable. Recently Neha Dhupia, Nandita Das, Dia Mirza, Tisca Chopra, Gul Panag and singer Sonal Kalra have all taken to the brand. 

Way back when you were a student, what inspired you? How did you decide upon this career?

Rohit Khosla inspired me as a designer. My mother who is an artist also inspired me greatly. Then my foray into theater was a defining moment and finally creating costumes for theater productions led me to choose fashion designing as a career. 

The Mood Dresser--Glam icon, Shibani Dandekar has been the talk of the town for her gorgeous sense of style and grace

Shibani Dandekar

What is your biggest fashion asset?

I’d have to say my huge assortment of accessories. I have a huge fetish for collecting accessories; wherever I travel, be it Australia, London, New York and so on, I make sure I pick up funky, vintage stuff.

What according to you are the five wardrobe essentials for women?

Honestly, there is no specific answer to this question; however, I feel, wardrobe essential is an individualistic approach – it defines one’s personality and style quotient. For me, my wardrobe should always house the classic black and gold combination, lot of accessories, prints, and boots and off late I am very much into carrying smaller hand bags. Also, you will always find chic vintage pieces in my wardrobe, which I continuously keep collecting. Wardrobe essentials keep changing with varying trends.

What kinds of makeup do you usually like to wear?

I usually like to use a very light base followed by bronzer, which brings out a tanned look. I really don’t like to look too fair and pale because Indian skin is usually on the duskier side and I love flaunting it. Mascara is a must for me and finally bold lip colours finish my look. I have a huge collection of bold-coloured lipsticks, from different hues of reds and oranges to fuchsia and pinks...

Tell us about your favourite Indian and International designers...

On the international front, I love Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney. Amongst Indian designers, I admire works of Sailex, Payal Singhal, Masaba Gupta, Rina Dhaka, Rocky S and Namrata Joshipura.

What is your most expensive buy?

I collect sunglasses and I think I own almost every existing brand. From Tom Ford to Gucci, Prada, Victoria Beckham – I have it all and collectively I spend the most for my shades.

What are your favourite shoe and bag brands?

I don’t necessarily work by brands; I mostly pick up stuff that looks good. However I am a big fan of Christian Louboutin and Jimmy Choo when it comes to shoes. As far as bags are concerned, my current favourite is a black leather bag from Chloe.   

What is that one thing that completes your look every day?

I know it sounds clichéd but I have to say its personality that makes or breaks a look. You can go all edgy or classy, elegant or perhaps casual but unless you own that look you can’t pull it off. I dress according to my mood. On a lazy day you will find me in rip tees and baggy jeans; on days when I feel classy, you will find me in black and gold.

What do you do on a bad hair day?

I have figured out this new technique that always works wonders. A high, chic bun with one section of the hair braided around it is the best way to camouflage a bad hair day. Otherwise just put on a hat (smiles).

Who is your favourite fashion icon?

I love Sienna Miller because she dresses for nobody but herself. I find her extremely classy, trendy and fashionable. She doesn’t blindly succumb to trends and she looks effortlessly stylish.

Who is the most fashionable person in your family?

All three sisters are fashionable (laughs). Apeksha is a little bit casual; she likes quirky and grunge. On the other hand, Anusha is very boho chic all the time.

Who are the best dressed actors in Bollywood according to you?

When it comes to fashion scene in Bollywood, it has a long way to go. People here are too boxed into one-dimensional dressing and looks. Fashion has just started to get serious here. However, I like Sonam Kapoor and Rahul Khanna’s dressing sense. They do it fabulously!  

Any fashion confessions?

Everything was trial and error. I have no regrets because you do what you feel at that moment. Fashion is a medium of self expression for me and it will always be an individual choice.

What will you be wearing if you had to go on a first date?

If it’s a first date then I will be really casual – jeans, off shoulder tee, some accessories and natural makeup. Too dolled up often takes away the real personality and on a first date I would rather be myself.

Do you like following trends?

I like to take things that work best for me from trends. This season, I am all gaga about Aztec prints and my wardrobe is filled with them.

What according to you is the most fashionable city in India?

It has to be Goa. This place is all about colours, livelihood and vibrancy.

Where do you like to shop from?

I shop from all around the world. Whenever I am travelling I end up shopping a lot. But Masaba and Zara are like staple.

Tell us about your favourite makeup brands...

Hands down – it is MAC! Always.

The Eccentric Duo--Designer duo, Dev R Nil are known for their whimsical designs. Their capricious outfits, which are edgy, quirky yet very chic has breathed freshness into the realm of unisexual fashion

Dev r Nil

Known for their intellectually stimulating plots and distinctively unconventional designs, designer duo Dev R Nil’s work has always had abstinence. Their garments cast out freshness and callow whimsy in the rather stiff-lipped styling trade.

Tell us about your latest collection…

‘Love is a war for lives’ is the tagline for our latest collection, which was unveiled at the Will’s Lifestyle Fashion Week (WLFW) 2014. The love and affection in terms of sculptures, art and literature has now got replaced by rape and vandalism—such is the insecure times that we live in. This collection is a voice to the caged love and freedom of expression. We liberate ourselves from the mind and heart and celebrate life as God meant it to be.

Dev r Nil, WIFW A/W'14

What colours and prints will be in vogue this season?

Monochromes, surface embroideries, harsh geometric prints and few deliberately developed ‘unfinished’ prints will be interestingly mixed and layered to tell a story of forbidden love this season. The look that’s severe, cold yet vulnerable with its softness is what we should seek for in the upcoming months. The indifference of the grey and monochromes will be warmly hugged by turquoise blue, cherry red, canary yellow and mint blue.

What textiles, textures and silhouettes will be creating buzz in the fashion circuit?

Interplay of softness of chiffon and georgette juxtaposed with severity of leather and the formality of the special fabric developed with metallic thread embroidery will be in rage. The patterned prints of roses and scattered roses, the geometric monochromatic prints, the female form incorporated and disintegrated ‘love’—all will come together in unison.  The point of focus comes alive in the signature ‘Dev r Nil’ prints and the cutworks and appliqué techniques used on leather and other fabrics will create magic. Embroidered jackets, coat dresses, shirt dresses, leather tops and double-breasted long jackets keep the look chic and feminine. A special accessory line of bags, hold-alls, clutches, messenger-boy bags and man bags add to the story of search of freedom from the censorship imposed by the society, peer group, religion and more.

What according to you are the topmost fashion trends this year?

We believe wearing non-labeled clothing is a top trend for the year—clothing that will not scream-out-loud a label, rather will compliment one’s personality. Trends come and go but finding classics, is the toughest.

What are your views on unisexual fashion?

As far as unisexual fashion is concerned, we have been creating clothes for our own personal wear, which ends up being preferred by both the sexes. There was no conscious decision of making them unisexual, but the idea of blurring the gender divide through clothing is very powerful in itself. So we continue designing clothes and prints, which obscures these lines.

Dev r Nil, WIFW A/W'14

What is your take on the business dynamics of Indian fashion?

The Indian fashion industry, with its talent, craft, textile and business sense, is luring the international fashion world with a certain sense of vengeance; there’s no denying that the Indian fashion industry and designers have managed to impact the fashion orbit, all across the world. We have not only impressed the world with power, style and sensibility, but the country has a great understanding of the business dynamics of this colossal international industry. All over the world, Indian ethnic designs and materials are considered as a significant facet for fashion houses and garment manufacturers, so you can clearly judge where we stand.

What is your fashion philosophy?

One thing we definitely know is that misery and sadness doesn’t inspire us. Human spirit, happy memories, travel experiences or even inanimate objects like a broken wall with a banyan tree (incidentally that’s the name and inspiration of our first collection) can spark a whole lot of images in our heads. We are affected by daily lives, the socio-economic climate as well as stories, which transport us to a different world all together.