The fashion architect--Kiran Uttam Ghosh's designs are beyond pragmatic prêt. With an unconventional urge to create a sense of balance between traditional and modernist quintessence, she constantly thrives to take perfection to newer bounds

Kiran Uttam Ghosh's A/W'14 collection

Kolkata-based designer, Kiran Uttam Ghosh confronts the very notion of categorization. Being present in eight countries, Ghosh’s designs are understated with silhouettes and distinctive textures that snub to be allied by any particular school of fashion philosophy.  Her work emphasises on the metaphysics of detailing, which was imparted to her by her mentor, Jasper Conran. Today, her couture line epitomizes an enduring classic appeal, wherein she casts newer dimensions to all her clothes. 

Tell us about your Autumn/Winter'14 collection…

My Autumn/Winter collection is inspired by Paisleys—Paisleys as embroidered cut-work necks, textures, prints and neck pieces. One can see layered silhouettes that are long and lean, often with shorter fronts and long backs; also, metallic and bling neck pieces have made a mark. The key pieces to look out for are sheer pants with embroidered hem details and cut work armholes. This collection is about separates—to connect with varied generations and to wear on different occasions. For example, a gold pleated wrap jacket can be worn over a sari or over shorts, paired with a tee or with a choli. 

What colours and prints will be in vogue this season?

Metallics, like, gold, bronze and silver will work well adding drama and support to colours like rich red, ivory, deep purple, teal and emerald. As far as prints are concerned, enlarged paisley prints will rule the season. 

What textiles and silhouettes will be creating buzz in the fashion circuit?

Silhouettes that are shorter on the front with longer backs will be trending. Furthermore, vertical paneled pieces with sheer and opaque offsetting each other will be in vogue. As for textiles, I feel pressed pleats in gold, bronze and silver will be hot favourite. Pleats in short colours of teal, deep purple and gold will have a fashion moment too! 

What according to you are the topmost fashion trends this year?

I’m not a trends person at all. I follow what I feel like wearing. I like my clothes to be passed on as heirloom pieces. Nothing makes me happier than a mother telling me how her daughter wore her clothes on her wedding day. Having said that, I think sheer pyjamas with bright traditional embroidered hemlines are a great way to present traditional workmanship with a global silhouette. These can easily be worn with a tee, a shirt or a gherdaar—from evening wear to a mehendi ceremony or a wedding reception.

What are your views on deconstructive silhouettes and unisexual fashion?

Androgyny is my forte. There is nothing like a man’s white shirt on a woman’s petite figure. I love borrowing from a man’s wardrobe. At the same time I love pastels, saris, kurtas and sheers. Being a woman in fashion today is amazing. We can have the best of both worlds.  

What is your fashion philosophy?

Keeping it simple is my mantra. I often see an ensemble and feel I can make five out of one. ‘Edit’ is my favorite word. While I love many layers, I also love when one can wear it as separates. Fashion is one of the few applied arts with a commercial aspect to it. I believe it’s a balance between the two worlds that can make it all come together.  It’s this balance that I strive to achieve. What I present at my show, my buyers and stores should want to buy.

What is your take on changing consumer tastes?

The only 'constant' in fashion is change. At the same time, there are classic timeless pieces that are beautiful and should remain the way they are. It’s the poise between the two that one needs to achieve. 

Replicating Society--Designer Urvashi Kaur believes, fashion is nothing but a mirror to the society, reflecting its nuances in the most honest way

Urvashi Kaur (center)

Fashion designer Urvashi Kaur is known for her sharp interest in various types of fabrics and colours. She yearns to harvest fresh ideas pertaining to the present socio, economic and cultural status of the contemporary society through her designs. She thrives on the zest to constantly experiment with different facets of fashion by bending genres; and the final outcomes are always enthralling.

Motivated to revitalize the country’s effervescent textiles, Kaur blends the spheres of ethnic with the modern, which leads her to earn critical applause and a venerated league of clientele for her designs. She is also known for developing relationships with many NGO’s by generating and offering employment opportunities to women and endorsing the improvement of handloom fabrics.

What inspires your designs?

My last collection, titled 'Semah' has been inspired by the three unified states of human nature — the mind (as knowledge and thought), the heart (through the expression of feelings, poetry and music) and the body (by activating life). It is Sufi in its deepest of essence.  

What is your design philosophy?

My design beliefs are all about thinking globally but acting locally.

What does your creation reflect?

My creations in this collection reflect the Sufi traditions across the globe through its art and culture. 

What new techniques and materials are you using?

The techniques in this collection involve engineered placements of twisted tie/dye that evoke Bandhej. Mosaic styled geometric patterns derived by hand block prints paired with pleating techniques also surfaced in my work. I have also used shell buttons and wooden beads on the versatile separates with touches of volume and movement in drapes that set a dramatic rhythm.

What does fashion mean to you?

Fashion to me means evoking a sense of simplicity and still being stylishly smart that catches the eye without trying too hard. My collections could be worn by anybody as it has fluidity, movement and ease in it. 

How has the Indian fashion industry shaped your outlook towards fashion?

More than the fashion industry, it is the indigenous handlooms, weaves and textiles of India that have inspired me, along with numerous techniques that find expression in our traditional costumes such as hand tucking, rouching, tie and dye, block printing etc. The silhouettes in my collection are also inspired from Indian traditional silhouettes but have been modified for a more universal market.

What’s in the pipeline for your fans?

Many prominent online collaborations such as ‘Pernia’s pop up’ and tie ups with new stores in India and abroad such as ‘anthropology’ are in the pipeline for my fans .The brand is increasing its presence pan-India as well as in the international daises like in Japan and the US. We are also increasing our presence in the Middle East.

Who is your favourite model?

It is very difficult to name one favorite model. However I would like to name a few like, Preeti Dhata, Laxmi Rana and Sonalika Sahay.

Any fashion brands that you really adore?

The international brands I adore are Mary Katrantzou, Serbian label Roksanda Ilincic and Peter Pilotto. I admire the French label Celine (Céline Vipiana) and Stella McCartney too.  Greco-Austrian Marios Schwab, Vivienne Westwood, Roland Mouret and Alexander McQueen are my favourites too. In India I am a fan of Rajesh Pratap, Payal Pratap, Abraham and Thakore, Pankaj and Nidhi, Pero, AM:PM, Cell Design and Gaurav Jai Gupta to name a few.

Tell us about your personal style.

Eclectic is the word that describes my personal style most aptly.

What fashion trends do you foresee for the upcoming months?

For the upcoming months the fashion trends I foresee are prints, pleats, sheer, checks and stripes, whites and minimalism.

Who wears your collection?

My collection is very commercially viable as it is affordable and easily wearable. Recently Neha Dhupia, Nandita Das, Dia Mirza, Tisca Chopra, Gul Panag and singer Sonal Kalra have all taken to the brand. 

Way back when you were a student, what inspired you? How did you decide upon this career?

Rohit Khosla inspired me as a designer. My mother who is an artist also inspired me greatly. Then my foray into theater was a defining moment and finally creating costumes for theater productions led me to choose fashion designing as a career. 

The Eccentric Duo--Designer duo, Dev R Nil are known for their whimsical designs. Their capricious outfits, which are edgy, quirky yet very chic has breathed freshness into the realm of unisexual fashion

Dev r Nil

Known for their intellectually stimulating plots and distinctively unconventional designs, designer duo Dev R Nil’s work has always had abstinence. Their garments cast out freshness and callow whimsy in the rather stiff-lipped styling trade.

Tell us about your latest collection…

‘Love is a war for lives’ is the tagline for our latest collection, which was unveiled at the Will’s Lifestyle Fashion Week (WLFW) 2014. The love and affection in terms of sculptures, art and literature has now got replaced by rape and vandalism—such is the insecure times that we live in. This collection is a voice to the caged love and freedom of expression. We liberate ourselves from the mind and heart and celebrate life as God meant it to be.

Dev r Nil, WIFW A/W'14

What colours and prints will be in vogue this season?

Monochromes, surface embroideries, harsh geometric prints and few deliberately developed ‘unfinished’ prints will be interestingly mixed and layered to tell a story of forbidden love this season. The look that’s severe, cold yet vulnerable with its softness is what we should seek for in the upcoming months. The indifference of the grey and monochromes will be warmly hugged by turquoise blue, cherry red, canary yellow and mint blue.

What textiles, textures and silhouettes will be creating buzz in the fashion circuit?

Interplay of softness of chiffon and georgette juxtaposed with severity of leather and the formality of the special fabric developed with metallic thread embroidery will be in rage. The patterned prints of roses and scattered roses, the geometric monochromatic prints, the female form incorporated and disintegrated ‘love’—all will come together in unison.  The point of focus comes alive in the signature ‘Dev r Nil’ prints and the cutworks and appliqué techniques used on leather and other fabrics will create magic. Embroidered jackets, coat dresses, shirt dresses, leather tops and double-breasted long jackets keep the look chic and feminine. A special accessory line of bags, hold-alls, clutches, messenger-boy bags and man bags add to the story of search of freedom from the censorship imposed by the society, peer group, religion and more.

What according to you are the topmost fashion trends this year?

We believe wearing non-labeled clothing is a top trend for the year—clothing that will not scream-out-loud a label, rather will compliment one’s personality. Trends come and go but finding classics, is the toughest.

What are your views on unisexual fashion?

As far as unisexual fashion is concerned, we have been creating clothes for our own personal wear, which ends up being preferred by both the sexes. There was no conscious decision of making them unisexual, but the idea of blurring the gender divide through clothing is very powerful in itself. So we continue designing clothes and prints, which obscures these lines.

Dev r Nil, WIFW A/W'14

What is your take on the business dynamics of Indian fashion?

The Indian fashion industry, with its talent, craft, textile and business sense, is luring the international fashion world with a certain sense of vengeance; there’s no denying that the Indian fashion industry and designers have managed to impact the fashion orbit, all across the world. We have not only impressed the world with power, style and sensibility, but the country has a great understanding of the business dynamics of this colossal international industry. All over the world, Indian ethnic designs and materials are considered as a significant facet for fashion houses and garment manufacturers, so you can clearly judge where we stand.

What is your fashion philosophy?

One thing we definitely know is that misery and sadness doesn’t inspire us. Human spirit, happy memories, travel experiences or even inanimate objects like a broken wall with a banyan tree (incidentally that’s the name and inspiration of our first collection) can spark a whole lot of images in our heads. We are affected by daily lives, the socio-economic climate as well as stories, which transport us to a different world all together.

The Designer Who Needs No Introduction--Manish Malhotra's designs and aesthetic values have put him on a pedestal higher than ever. Let's take a sneak-peak into his world of fashion and luxury

Manish Malhotra with Kajol and Karishma Kapoor

From designing for the divas of Bollywood, to decking up real life brides, designer Manish Malhotra has carved out a niche for himself in the topography of fashion and luxury industry in India and abroad. He speaks about his core concepts of building up a luxury brand and how to sustain in a cut-throat competitive world.

What’s the most fashionable Bollywood film till date?

I feel Dil Chahta Hai, Student of the Year and Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani in the last two decades and Pakeezah from the 1970s are some of the most fashionable films produced by the Indian film fraternity.

When did you realise that being a designer is your true calling?

I always knew I wanted to be an artist. The thought of designing came in eventually though.

Tell us about your first break in Bollywood?

My first break in Bollywood happened in 1986 with the movie Swarg.

Madhuri Dixit in Manish Malhotra

Brides or Bollywood – what gives you more creative satisfaction?

They both have equal importance in my life. I am a costume designer and a fashion couturier. I started my career with styling. The movies that I style for are always very character driven, whereas for bridal-wear, I keep the needs of the consumers in mind.  I visualize the woman who will be wearing my outfit while designing my bridal pieces, but in movies it is more character-centric styling, so I have to think of the character and the actor playing that particular role. However, in both the areas I have to be creative. Yes, they are all inter-connected and I always follow my creative instinct, whether it is for styling or designing, everything else falls in place gradually.

You introduced the concept of showstoppers here – what are your thoughts on it? Who’s your favourite showstopper?

For me, it all started with my first collection where my dear friend, Urmila Matondkar was my muse for that show. I started the concept of showstopper very unintentionally in order to bring some element of newness and today it has become a trend, followed by one and all. I think showstoppers in my shows, rather than taking away all the limelight, always add a little more character to my designs.

Where do you think the Indian fashion industry is headed?

The Indian fashion industry today is headed to a great scenario of globalization with Indian styles becoming the new International ramp looks. For example, the admiration for this classic bandhgala is evident worldwide. The bandhgala is one of those few Indian silhouettes that have found international acclaim. Giorgio Armani has been making them for some time now, Canali has come up with the ‘Nawab Jacket’, and the modernised versions by Tom Ford and Paul Smith are helping the brands establish themselves in India.

Manish Malhotra with Kareena Kapooor

What has been the biggest change in the Indian Fashion Industry?

The fashion industry in India has evolved beautifully, particularly in the last 20 years. Boundaries of the industry started to expand, like the West learning that India is glamorous, and that the sari is the most sensuous garment in the whole wide world. Men have now embraced pink overcoming the stereotypical thinking; an anarkali is as stylish as an evening gown. We see a lot of celebrities embracing our Indian culture like the bandhgala Jacket and the sari at various international events. Many such examples tell us the story of an evolving fashion industry.

What advice do you have for designers breaking into the industry?

Just do what you love, be passionate about your work, it will take you places.

The Fashion Goddess--Sonam Kapoor has been charming hearts of millions across the world with her wonderful sense of fashion and style. She calls herself a ‘dramatic dresser’ but it is blanketed elegantly in cloaks of sophistication

In the kingdom of showbiz, actor Sonam Kapoor has been crowned as the queen of fashion. It’s been a phoenix-like rise for her in the Indian film industry--starting from her first appearance in Sanjay Leela Bansali’s Saawariya to films like Aisha, Raanjhanaa, Bhaag Milkha Bhaag and more. Her sense of style is eccentric, rather she personifies the quintessence of experimental fashion. “My sortie into the industry of fashion and glamour has been quite an amazing one. I worked with many designers but so far I have loved most working with my very dear friend Pernia Qureshi. I was introduced to her by my sister and ever since then it’s been a fashion galore for me. Our aesthetic values and understanding of fashion is absolutely in sync; I trust her sense of styling with all my heart,” avers Kapoor.

The diva believes in dressing for nobody but herself. “In the end, it is not for the sake of being ultra-glamourous but being comfy,” she says with a sparkling smile.

This pretty lady is a regular at Cannes and she sets the paparazzi on a roll with her larger-than-life presence. She overwhelms the international media with custom made Dolce and Gabanna gowns; brands like Armani, Prada, Ferragamo, Cavalli and Burberry have become the fashion of the hour with the sultry goddess making them a regular deal.

Fashion quotient:

Being the most adoring connoisseur of fashion and beautiful things in life, Kapoor is a dramatic dresser. “I admire beautiful things and beautiful people. It is such a visual delight to see well-dressed people. Fashion and style is something that I love to cultivate; I read lot of books and magazines; I watch many movies and try to be part of fashion shows to keep myself hooked on to the latest happenings in the world of fashion. Over the years, my sense of styling or shopping for that matter has changed in a much refined way; the more the exposure, the better is the consequence. But what I really believe is that looking beautiful is profoundly related to being fit,” she ushers.

Fashionista’s muse:

“I am pretty gusty when it comes to following trends. I rather set trends and not fit myself into something just because it’s in vogue,” informs Kapoor. Her fashion sensibilities are stimulated by the archetypes of fashion, like, Audrey Hepburn, Alexandra McQueen, Katharine Hepburn and Coco Chanel. “And in India, I love the way Meena Kumari, Madhubala and Sharmila Tagore have expressed themselves in terms of fashion. In contemporary times, I love the way Kalki Koechilin dresses up; she is bold and at the same time she dresses for herself,” she adds.

The shopaholic:

Kapoor loves shopping! And her favourite designers are, Anamika Khanna, Anuradha Vakil, Rohit Bal, Chanel, Alexandra McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano. Not only clothes, the sexy siren has a major fetish for accessories too. “I adore accessories, be it jewellery, shoes, watches, bags, anything at all!” 

She shops from across the world--London, Paris, New York and more. “But my favourite shopping destination is Dilli. You get the best stuff here,” she affirms. When in Mumbai, she loves digging vintage from Bungalow 8. However, Kapoor also indulges in the pleasures of street shopping, especially when in Delhi. “I love buying jewellery and sandals from Delhi,” she states.

Her closet:

The lady says, “My wardrobe is my temple.” She has a walk-in closet, wherein she keeps her most expensive buys to the simplest of stuff with much love. “I cherish my clothes and accessories from the bottom of my heart,” she gushes. However, being the perfectionist that she is, when it comes to proper dressing and maintenance of her ensembles, Kapoor re-shuffles her wardrobe twice a year. “My wardrobe is my haven. But, I don’t like to stash everything together; so I neatly pack stuff and display it in such a way that I can peek at them,” she signs off.