The fashion architect--Kiran Uttam Ghosh's designs are beyond pragmatic prêt. With an unconventional urge to create a sense of balance between traditional and modernist quintessence, she constantly thrives to take perfection to newer bounds

Kiran Uttam Ghosh's A/W'14 collection

Kolkata-based designer, Kiran Uttam Ghosh confronts the very notion of categorization. Being present in eight countries, Ghosh’s designs are understated with silhouettes and distinctive textures that snub to be allied by any particular school of fashion philosophy.  Her work emphasises on the metaphysics of detailing, which was imparted to her by her mentor, Jasper Conran. Today, her couture line epitomizes an enduring classic appeal, wherein she casts newer dimensions to all her clothes. 

Tell us about your Autumn/Winter'14 collection…

My Autumn/Winter collection is inspired by Paisleys—Paisleys as embroidered cut-work necks, textures, prints and neck pieces. One can see layered silhouettes that are long and lean, often with shorter fronts and long backs; also, metallic and bling neck pieces have made a mark. The key pieces to look out for are sheer pants with embroidered hem details and cut work armholes. This collection is about separates—to connect with varied generations and to wear on different occasions. For example, a gold pleated wrap jacket can be worn over a sari or over shorts, paired with a tee or with a choli. 

What colours and prints will be in vogue this season?

Metallics, like, gold, bronze and silver will work well adding drama and support to colours like rich red, ivory, deep purple, teal and emerald. As far as prints are concerned, enlarged paisley prints will rule the season. 

What textiles and silhouettes will be creating buzz in the fashion circuit?

Silhouettes that are shorter on the front with longer backs will be trending. Furthermore, vertical paneled pieces with sheer and opaque offsetting each other will be in vogue. As for textiles, I feel pressed pleats in gold, bronze and silver will be hot favourite. Pleats in short colours of teal, deep purple and gold will have a fashion moment too! 

What according to you are the topmost fashion trends this year?

I’m not a trends person at all. I follow what I feel like wearing. I like my clothes to be passed on as heirloom pieces. Nothing makes me happier than a mother telling me how her daughter wore her clothes on her wedding day. Having said that, I think sheer pyjamas with bright traditional embroidered hemlines are a great way to present traditional workmanship with a global silhouette. These can easily be worn with a tee, a shirt or a gherdaar—from evening wear to a mehendi ceremony or a wedding reception.

What are your views on deconstructive silhouettes and unisexual fashion?

Androgyny is my forte. There is nothing like a man’s white shirt on a woman’s petite figure. I love borrowing from a man’s wardrobe. At the same time I love pastels, saris, kurtas and sheers. Being a woman in fashion today is amazing. We can have the best of both worlds.  

What is your fashion philosophy?

Keeping it simple is my mantra. I often see an ensemble and feel I can make five out of one. ‘Edit’ is my favorite word. While I love many layers, I also love when one can wear it as separates. Fashion is one of the few applied arts with a commercial aspect to it. I believe it’s a balance between the two worlds that can make it all come together.  It’s this balance that I strive to achieve. What I present at my show, my buyers and stores should want to buy.

What is your take on changing consumer tastes?

The only 'constant' in fashion is change. At the same time, there are classic timeless pieces that are beautiful and should remain the way they are. It’s the poise between the two that one needs to achieve.