The Power of Pink--Anupama Dayal never ceases to surprise fashionistas with her eccentric and boho-chic designs

Anupama Dayal

Ace designer, Anupama Dayal spurted out an explosion of warm colours and freshness into the fashion world with her collection named, Gulabi. Her designs recreated a certain sense of tenderness with a palette of soft hues, mostly pinks and olives. She spoke about her muse, upcoming trends and design aesthetics.

What inspired your designs?

For me gulabi is a story of a young woman who lived in an old haveli, somewhere in India. She harboured one burning desire in her heart – she wanted to see the world, travel across oceans to lands that are distant and exotic, wherein people are friendly in a strange way. After endless wandering she returns home and one night when her lover is away, when life begins to feel jaded, she opens her treasure box; and as she unwraps her precious souvenir, she lets the magic unfurl. Gulabi is free and she cherishes the world inside her. She is my source of inspiration.

Tell us about the cuts, fabrics and colours you incorporated in your pieces…

Salwar-inspired trousers, shirt-over-shirts, swingy skirts, waistcoat of all kinds and saris surfaced majorly on the silhouette paradigm of my collection. As far as the fabric is concerned, the idea is to go completely hand spun. Several varieties of chanderi, hand weaves from Bengal, silk chiffon and pashmina have been employed in my work. And the colour is gulabi! Many hues of pink from blush to burgundy, tones of olive from pale to pistachio to deep military have been incorporated in my dresses.

Gulabi

Gulabi

What is your design philosophy?

My design philosophy is to design clothes that are deep rooted in culture but easy and wearable anytime, in any part of the world. My commitment to the ‘Anupamaa’ woman is to make her feel happy.

What techniques and materials do you usually employ?

The raison d’être of my label is the revival of ancient, almost forgotten hand printing and needle craft techniques of India. My style reflects an amalgamation of vintage with bold and the western. The print stories are often eclectic and the philosophy is organic. One of my favorite techniques is using wooden blocks. The wooden blocks are hand carved and often based on my hand drawn sketches or old vintage patterns.  The blocks are then dipped into dyes and placed on pure fabrics like silk and cotton. The mixing of the dyes is kept secret, closely quarried by the master printer. These recipes are handed down from one generation to another. The craft of mixing and cooking colours is the most crucial part of the process of printing in my designs. The fabric is then coated with clay, rolled along with parchment and steamed in an oven for few hours; post steaming we wait for a day of crackling sunlight to wash the fabric. The sunlight oxidises the colours.

How do you blend traditional aesthetics with modern design?

I keep functionality as a cornerstone in the design process. I add and adapt till I have recreated the traditional aesthetic to be relevant to modern times.

As a proponent of the dying artisanal art and crafts, what do you think should be done to sustain or revive such Indian art and crafts?

I think designers are a crucial bridge. The government should use us to work with artisans and craftspeople to ensure cutting edge, demand centered, differentiated products. I feel it would be a great boost to the rural economy as well.

Who is your favorite model?

Indrani Dasgupta and Diana Penty are my most favourite models ever.

What fashion trends do you foresee for the upcoming months?

A return to individuality will surface in the fashion orb.  A lot of handmade products and fabrics will be popular worldwide.