An ode to Indian Cinema--designer Nida Mahmood delights her fans with her collection, inspired by the effervescence of Indian cinema

Nida Mahmood

Blending the most basic elements of life with high-end fashion, enveloped in different layers of Indian culture and sprinkled with vibrancy, designer Nida Mahmood is all about juxtaposing art with fashion. Her garments procure a happy outburst of colours and there is a certain sense of eccentricity in her designs. She shares her passion, aesthetic values and future plans...

What inspired your designs this time?

My spring-summer collection for 2014 is inspired by the 100 glorious years of Indian cinema. This collection is a manifestation of the larger-than-life grandeur of Indian cinema. Primarily a digitally designed collection, it spans within three major design languages essentially revolving around the line of art. This collection sees interesting mirror imaging of intensely intricate designs.

Tell us about the cuts and fabrics you incorporated in your pieces… 

The major silhouettes are variations of the mullet in shirts, skirts and dresses. Shoulders are prominent in the collection; be it in terms of sharp shoulders in summer jackets or as textural embroidery highlighting the shoulder. Plenty of breezy summer silhouettes have surfaced in the collection. A lot of tucks and pleats and subtle dart manipulations add to the stylization of the collection too. Also collars have been given importance.

What new techniques and materials are you using?  

Spring/Summer 2014

Fabrics used range from handlooms from various parts of India, to several kinds of fine count power loom cottons and rayon, light-weight silks and georgettes and some lycra based fabrics too.

What does fashion mean to you?

Fashion is a mere paraphrase of art to me.

How do you blend traditional aesthetics with modern design?

India cool is my line of thought. Indian culture with a modern take is what it takes to blend the two together.

Most fashion designers are now diversifying into other areas besides fashion, for instance your association with watches, the liquor industry, etc; and collaborating with other industries. What’s your take on this and how important is it to diversify for creative expression as well as to scale up the business?

Well, I am an artist, so I endorse this view completely. I have had many associations in other areas over the past years; for instance, many art installations, furniture design, interiors, home décor, etc. I am designing weddings for Taj Vivanta at the moment and revamping a cinema hall in the heart of south Delhi. I have also been writing for many years on art and fashion and many more such things.

What is the future of couture in India?

Couture will soar high. It is already taking different forms but this is one space that will grow into many manifestations.

What fashion trends do you foresee for the upcoming months?

Spring/Summer 2014

Mullet silhouette is big, boxy shoulders, cropped tops, closed collared shirts, bow ties, brogues; etc will be trending in a big way!

How does cultural potpourri surface in your work?

It is the most intrinsic part of my work. I am deeply inspired by culture, especially Indian culture. I am never preachy in my work but you will always find humour in it.

What is the essence of your designing?

I enjoy spinning the boring and mundane into the most dramatic forms. The regular suddenly have wings in my work and take a whole new avatar. For instance, a simple cup of chai was the inspiration behind High On Chai which brought anti fashion to the fashion scene for the first time ever. Tiny matchboxes created the collection Maachis, and Capt. Mast Qalandar was motorized flying ant – a reincarnation of an old vintage bike flying through time and space on his time machine called vdo gaga!