Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week 2014-Day 2

Nimrat Kaur, Rina Dhaka and Malaika Arora Khan with models

Inspired by the iconography of gota work of Rajasthan, designer Rina Dhaka takes her designs to a whole new level this time at the India Couture Week, day 2! Her outfits look regal with undertones of her matchless aesthetics and soft sensual appeal. In her latest collection, the designer has re-created a new sense of style for the gota patti work, placed delicately, contouring sequined sheers and lace. Her designs surfaced convoluted embroidery elements from Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh, laid lovingly in a lace like manner.

Techniques of zardozi, kamdani, ari and lace and metallic gota have been juxtaposed with tonal beading and soft embroidery to create a saga of romance. Gota patti and zardozi are set against lace backdrop, contrasted by Mughal animal paintings, depicted on fur-lined velvet capes.

The fashion architect--Kiran Uttam Ghosh's designs are beyond pragmatic prêt. With an unconventional urge to create a sense of balance between traditional and modernist quintessence, she constantly thrives to take perfection to newer bounds

Kiran Uttam Ghosh's A/W'14 collection

Kolkata-based designer, Kiran Uttam Ghosh confronts the very notion of categorization. Being present in eight countries, Ghosh’s designs are understated with silhouettes and distinctive textures that snub to be allied by any particular school of fashion philosophy.  Her work emphasises on the metaphysics of detailing, which was imparted to her by her mentor, Jasper Conran. Today, her couture line epitomizes an enduring classic appeal, wherein she casts newer dimensions to all her clothes. 

Tell us about your Autumn/Winter'14 collection…

My Autumn/Winter collection is inspired by Paisleys—Paisleys as embroidered cut-work necks, textures, prints and neck pieces. One can see layered silhouettes that are long and lean, often with shorter fronts and long backs; also, metallic and bling neck pieces have made a mark. The key pieces to look out for are sheer pants with embroidered hem details and cut work armholes. This collection is about separates—to connect with varied generations and to wear on different occasions. For example, a gold pleated wrap jacket can be worn over a sari or over shorts, paired with a tee or with a choli. 

What colours and prints will be in vogue this season?

Metallics, like, gold, bronze and silver will work well adding drama and support to colours like rich red, ivory, deep purple, teal and emerald. As far as prints are concerned, enlarged paisley prints will rule the season. 

What textiles and silhouettes will be creating buzz in the fashion circuit?

Silhouettes that are shorter on the front with longer backs will be trending. Furthermore, vertical paneled pieces with sheer and opaque offsetting each other will be in vogue. As for textiles, I feel pressed pleats in gold, bronze and silver will be hot favourite. Pleats in short colours of teal, deep purple and gold will have a fashion moment too! 

What according to you are the topmost fashion trends this year?

I’m not a trends person at all. I follow what I feel like wearing. I like my clothes to be passed on as heirloom pieces. Nothing makes me happier than a mother telling me how her daughter wore her clothes on her wedding day. Having said that, I think sheer pyjamas with bright traditional embroidered hemlines are a great way to present traditional workmanship with a global silhouette. These can easily be worn with a tee, a shirt or a gherdaar—from evening wear to a mehendi ceremony or a wedding reception.

What are your views on deconstructive silhouettes and unisexual fashion?

Androgyny is my forte. There is nothing like a man’s white shirt on a woman’s petite figure. I love borrowing from a man’s wardrobe. At the same time I love pastels, saris, kurtas and sheers. Being a woman in fashion today is amazing. We can have the best of both worlds.  

What is your fashion philosophy?

Keeping it simple is my mantra. I often see an ensemble and feel I can make five out of one. ‘Edit’ is my favorite word. While I love many layers, I also love when one can wear it as separates. Fashion is one of the few applied arts with a commercial aspect to it. I believe it’s a balance between the two worlds that can make it all come together.  It’s this balance that I strive to achieve. What I present at my show, my buyers and stores should want to buy.

What is your take on changing consumer tastes?

The only 'constant' in fashion is change. At the same time, there are classic timeless pieces that are beautiful and should remain the way they are. It’s the poise between the two that one needs to achieve. 

Replicating Society--Designer Urvashi Kaur believes, fashion is nothing but a mirror to the society, reflecting its nuances in the most honest way

Urvashi Kaur (center)

Fashion designer Urvashi Kaur is known for her sharp interest in various types of fabrics and colours. She yearns to harvest fresh ideas pertaining to the present socio, economic and cultural status of the contemporary society through her designs. She thrives on the zest to constantly experiment with different facets of fashion by bending genres; and the final outcomes are always enthralling.

Motivated to revitalize the country’s effervescent textiles, Kaur blends the spheres of ethnic with the modern, which leads her to earn critical applause and a venerated league of clientele for her designs. She is also known for developing relationships with many NGO’s by generating and offering employment opportunities to women and endorsing the improvement of handloom fabrics.

What inspires your designs?

My last collection, titled 'Semah' has been inspired by the three unified states of human nature — the mind (as knowledge and thought), the heart (through the expression of feelings, poetry and music) and the body (by activating life). It is Sufi in its deepest of essence.  

What is your design philosophy?

My design beliefs are all about thinking globally but acting locally.

What does your creation reflect?

My creations in this collection reflect the Sufi traditions across the globe through its art and culture. 

What new techniques and materials are you using?

The techniques in this collection involve engineered placements of twisted tie/dye that evoke Bandhej. Mosaic styled geometric patterns derived by hand block prints paired with pleating techniques also surfaced in my work. I have also used shell buttons and wooden beads on the versatile separates with touches of volume and movement in drapes that set a dramatic rhythm.

What does fashion mean to you?

Fashion to me means evoking a sense of simplicity and still being stylishly smart that catches the eye without trying too hard. My collections could be worn by anybody as it has fluidity, movement and ease in it. 

How has the Indian fashion industry shaped your outlook towards fashion?

More than the fashion industry, it is the indigenous handlooms, weaves and textiles of India that have inspired me, along with numerous techniques that find expression in our traditional costumes such as hand tucking, rouching, tie and dye, block printing etc. The silhouettes in my collection are also inspired from Indian traditional silhouettes but have been modified for a more universal market.

What’s in the pipeline for your fans?

Many prominent online collaborations such as ‘Pernia’s pop up’ and tie ups with new stores in India and abroad such as ‘anthropology’ are in the pipeline for my fans .The brand is increasing its presence pan-India as well as in the international daises like in Japan and the US. We are also increasing our presence in the Middle East.

Who is your favourite model?

It is very difficult to name one favorite model. However I would like to name a few like, Preeti Dhata, Laxmi Rana and Sonalika Sahay.

Any fashion brands that you really adore?

The international brands I adore are Mary Katrantzou, Serbian label Roksanda Ilincic and Peter Pilotto. I admire the French label Celine (Céline Vipiana) and Stella McCartney too.  Greco-Austrian Marios Schwab, Vivienne Westwood, Roland Mouret and Alexander McQueen are my favourites too. In India I am a fan of Rajesh Pratap, Payal Pratap, Abraham and Thakore, Pankaj and Nidhi, Pero, AM:PM, Cell Design and Gaurav Jai Gupta to name a few.

Tell us about your personal style.

Eclectic is the word that describes my personal style most aptly.

What fashion trends do you foresee for the upcoming months?

For the upcoming months the fashion trends I foresee are prints, pleats, sheer, checks and stripes, whites and minimalism.

Who wears your collection?

My collection is very commercially viable as it is affordable and easily wearable. Recently Neha Dhupia, Nandita Das, Dia Mirza, Tisca Chopra, Gul Panag and singer Sonal Kalra have all taken to the brand. 

Way back when you were a student, what inspired you? How did you decide upon this career?

Rohit Khosla inspired me as a designer. My mother who is an artist also inspired me greatly. Then my foray into theater was a defining moment and finally creating costumes for theater productions led me to choose fashion designing as a career. 

The Dreamer--Turning dreams into reality, Bollywood actor Raj Kumar is racing against the odds in the industry to make a mark

Actor Raj Kumar

A prodigy of Film and Television Institute of India (FTII), Pune, Raj Kumar is living his dreams today – he dreamt of gracing the silver screen since he was in school. From his debut as Adarsh in Dibakar Banerjee’s critically acclaimed movie Love, Sex Aur Dhokha to playing Govind in super hit film Kai Po Che, he has proved that he can flawlessly bend genres. Kumar is one of the few actors who have made it big in the industry without having a God father’s hand.

When did you have your first stint with the camera?

I was in fifth grade when our school dance group had gone to Prasar Bharti for a show. I played Gandhi and I still remember how happy we all were. I always wanted to become an actor; arts, theatre and acting have always arrested my thoughts. But I decided to be an actor when I was in the ninth grade.

How did Kai Po Che happen?

The casting director asked me to audition for Govind’s role and I got it (smiles). The entire journey was so memorable. I took back truck loads of wonderful experiences from Kai Po Che. The best part was that we all gelled superbly well and became like one big happy family. All the actors were very serious about this film and everybody put up their best show to make it a big hit. I learnt a lot from each one of them. If I have to pick one memorable moment from the shooting days then it would be the day we shot the dance sequence where all three lead cast were shirtless. This was not part of the script. Sushant and Amit had a little bit of alcohol and they randomly took their shirts off and started dancing like nobody is watching them. I was parked at a corner and I was watching them. They went wild and they roped me in, tore my shirt and we danced our hearts out. Someone shot the whole thing and later the director was so happy to see this; he eventually added the sequence in the film.

Tell us about your childhood…

I am born and brought up in Gurgaon. I graduated from Delhi University in arts and since then I developed keen interest in theatre. Post my graduation I moved to FTII, Pune for masters in acting. Days spent in Pune are by far the golden days of my life – I was acting, breathing and thinking films. With the plethora of ideas and creativity booming in the campus air, I learnt so much from my very talented batch mates and brilliant professors.

Would you care to share some fond childhood memories?

I was a complete filmy kid. I watched Agneepath continuously for three weeks and I moulded myself into Amitabh Bachchan’s character and would beat the shit out of my brothers.

Are you planning to get married anytime soon? What kind of girl are you looking for?

I have already found my match; her name is Anwita, I met her at FTII; she was working on some project in our college and we played the part of a newly married couple and rest is history (gushes). We have been dating for a couple of years now and she is an actor too.

How has your life changed after Bollywood happened?

What I miss the most is personal space. When you are on the streets, you will find so many eyes glued at you, but that’s fine because back in Delhi even I would do the same when any celeb was spotted. Once me and Anwita went to watch a movie and we held each other’s hands; the next day there was a big story about how we indulged in extreme PDA. This is a big problem but sigh!

If you could rectify one mistake you made in your life, what would it be?

As I mentioned before, I was a full on filmy kid so whenever I would see a hero with a new hairdo, I would immediately try it on myself. I ended up experimenting with the most bizarre looks. I guess I would like to change that.

What was the turning point of your life?

Clearing the FTII entrance examination at one go and finally setting my first step on the campus has been the turning point of my life.

What do you have a fetish for?

I have a fetish for travelling and exploring new destinations. My favourite city of all time is Amsterdam.

Apart from acting, what do you like to do?

Off late I have developed an interest in photography. My flat mate is into photography, he is a DOP (director of photography), so he has the best of shutterbugs and lenses, and I am good to go (laughs).

If not an actor, what would you have been?

I would not be anything but an actor. I would direct someday maybe.

Has your perception of Bollywood changed after you became part of the industry?

It has changed a lot. Earlier I used to think that actors are so lucky – driving good cars, living to the fullest, travelling, etcetera. However, reality is very contrasting because so much hard work goes into making a film.

What is the craziest thing you have ever done?

I would rather call them stupid. After watching Ghulam I went and stood on a railway track and enacted the scariest scene where Amir Khan jumps right before the train comes in front of him. And I was in ninth grade only.

What is your favourite book?

It has to be Charlie Chaplin’s autobiography.

The Mood Dresser--Glam icon, Shibani Dandekar has been the talk of the town for her gorgeous sense of style and grace

Shibani Dandekar

What is your biggest fashion asset?

I’d have to say my huge assortment of accessories. I have a huge fetish for collecting accessories; wherever I travel, be it Australia, London, New York and so on, I make sure I pick up funky, vintage stuff.

What according to you are the five wardrobe essentials for women?

Honestly, there is no specific answer to this question; however, I feel, wardrobe essential is an individualistic approach – it defines one’s personality and style quotient. For me, my wardrobe should always house the classic black and gold combination, lot of accessories, prints, and boots and off late I am very much into carrying smaller hand bags. Also, you will always find chic vintage pieces in my wardrobe, which I continuously keep collecting. Wardrobe essentials keep changing with varying trends.

What kinds of makeup do you usually like to wear?

I usually like to use a very light base followed by bronzer, which brings out a tanned look. I really don’t like to look too fair and pale because Indian skin is usually on the duskier side and I love flaunting it. Mascara is a must for me and finally bold lip colours finish my look. I have a huge collection of bold-coloured lipsticks, from different hues of reds and oranges to fuchsia and pinks...

Tell us about your favourite Indian and International designers...

On the international front, I love Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney. Amongst Indian designers, I admire works of Sailex, Payal Singhal, Masaba Gupta, Rina Dhaka, Rocky S and Namrata Joshipura.

What is your most expensive buy?

I collect sunglasses and I think I own almost every existing brand. From Tom Ford to Gucci, Prada, Victoria Beckham – I have it all and collectively I spend the most for my shades.

What are your favourite shoe and bag brands?

I don’t necessarily work by brands; I mostly pick up stuff that looks good. However I am a big fan of Christian Louboutin and Jimmy Choo when it comes to shoes. As far as bags are concerned, my current favourite is a black leather bag from Chloe.   

What is that one thing that completes your look every day?

I know it sounds clichéd but I have to say its personality that makes or breaks a look. You can go all edgy or classy, elegant or perhaps casual but unless you own that look you can’t pull it off. I dress according to my mood. On a lazy day you will find me in rip tees and baggy jeans; on days when I feel classy, you will find me in black and gold.

What do you do on a bad hair day?

I have figured out this new technique that always works wonders. A high, chic bun with one section of the hair braided around it is the best way to camouflage a bad hair day. Otherwise just put on a hat (smiles).

Who is your favourite fashion icon?

I love Sienna Miller because she dresses for nobody but herself. I find her extremely classy, trendy and fashionable. She doesn’t blindly succumb to trends and she looks effortlessly stylish.

Who is the most fashionable person in your family?

All three sisters are fashionable (laughs). Apeksha is a little bit casual; she likes quirky and grunge. On the other hand, Anusha is very boho chic all the time.

Who are the best dressed actors in Bollywood according to you?

When it comes to fashion scene in Bollywood, it has a long way to go. People here are too boxed into one-dimensional dressing and looks. Fashion has just started to get serious here. However, I like Sonam Kapoor and Rahul Khanna’s dressing sense. They do it fabulously!  

Any fashion confessions?

Everything was trial and error. I have no regrets because you do what you feel at that moment. Fashion is a medium of self expression for me and it will always be an individual choice.

What will you be wearing if you had to go on a first date?

If it’s a first date then I will be really casual – jeans, off shoulder tee, some accessories and natural makeup. Too dolled up often takes away the real personality and on a first date I would rather be myself.

Do you like following trends?

I like to take things that work best for me from trends. This season, I am all gaga about Aztec prints and my wardrobe is filled with them.

What according to you is the most fashionable city in India?

It has to be Goa. This place is all about colours, livelihood and vibrancy.

Where do you like to shop from?

I shop from all around the world. Whenever I am travelling I end up shopping a lot. But Masaba and Zara are like staple.

Tell us about your favourite makeup brands...

Hands down – it is MAC! Always.

The Designer Who Needs No Introduction--Manish Malhotra's designs and aesthetic values have put him on a pedestal higher than ever. Let's take a sneak-peak into his world of fashion and luxury

Manish Malhotra with Kajol and Karishma Kapoor

From designing for the divas of Bollywood, to decking up real life brides, designer Manish Malhotra has carved out a niche for himself in the topography of fashion and luxury industry in India and abroad. He speaks about his core concepts of building up a luxury brand and how to sustain in a cut-throat competitive world.

What’s the most fashionable Bollywood film till date?

I feel Dil Chahta Hai, Student of the Year and Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani in the last two decades and Pakeezah from the 1970s are some of the most fashionable films produced by the Indian film fraternity.

When did you realise that being a designer is your true calling?

I always knew I wanted to be an artist. The thought of designing came in eventually though.

Tell us about your first break in Bollywood?

My first break in Bollywood happened in 1986 with the movie Swarg.

Madhuri Dixit in Manish Malhotra

Brides or Bollywood – what gives you more creative satisfaction?

They both have equal importance in my life. I am a costume designer and a fashion couturier. I started my career with styling. The movies that I style for are always very character driven, whereas for bridal-wear, I keep the needs of the consumers in mind.  I visualize the woman who will be wearing my outfit while designing my bridal pieces, but in movies it is more character-centric styling, so I have to think of the character and the actor playing that particular role. However, in both the areas I have to be creative. Yes, they are all inter-connected and I always follow my creative instinct, whether it is for styling or designing, everything else falls in place gradually.

You introduced the concept of showstoppers here – what are your thoughts on it? Who’s your favourite showstopper?

For me, it all started with my first collection where my dear friend, Urmila Matondkar was my muse for that show. I started the concept of showstopper very unintentionally in order to bring some element of newness and today it has become a trend, followed by one and all. I think showstoppers in my shows, rather than taking away all the limelight, always add a little more character to my designs.

Where do you think the Indian fashion industry is headed?

The Indian fashion industry today is headed to a great scenario of globalization with Indian styles becoming the new International ramp looks. For example, the admiration for this classic bandhgala is evident worldwide. The bandhgala is one of those few Indian silhouettes that have found international acclaim. Giorgio Armani has been making them for some time now, Canali has come up with the ‘Nawab Jacket’, and the modernised versions by Tom Ford and Paul Smith are helping the brands establish themselves in India.

Manish Malhotra with Kareena Kapooor

What has been the biggest change in the Indian Fashion Industry?

The fashion industry in India has evolved beautifully, particularly in the last 20 years. Boundaries of the industry started to expand, like the West learning that India is glamorous, and that the sari is the most sensuous garment in the whole wide world. Men have now embraced pink overcoming the stereotypical thinking; an anarkali is as stylish as an evening gown. We see a lot of celebrities embracing our Indian culture like the bandhgala Jacket and the sari at various international events. Many such examples tell us the story of an evolving fashion industry.

What advice do you have for designers breaking into the industry?

Just do what you love, be passionate about your work, it will take you places.