The fashion architect--Kiran Uttam Ghosh's designs are beyond pragmatic prêt. With an unconventional urge to create a sense of balance between traditional and modernist quintessence, she constantly thrives to take perfection to newer bounds

Kiran Uttam Ghosh's A/W'14 collection

Kolkata-based designer, Kiran Uttam Ghosh confronts the very notion of categorization. Being present in eight countries, Ghosh’s designs are understated with silhouettes and distinctive textures that snub to be allied by any particular school of fashion philosophy.  Her work emphasises on the metaphysics of detailing, which was imparted to her by her mentor, Jasper Conran. Today, her couture line epitomizes an enduring classic appeal, wherein she casts newer dimensions to all her clothes. 

Tell us about your Autumn/Winter'14 collection…

My Autumn/Winter collection is inspired by Paisleys—Paisleys as embroidered cut-work necks, textures, prints and neck pieces. One can see layered silhouettes that are long and lean, often with shorter fronts and long backs; also, metallic and bling neck pieces have made a mark. The key pieces to look out for are sheer pants with embroidered hem details and cut work armholes. This collection is about separates—to connect with varied generations and to wear on different occasions. For example, a gold pleated wrap jacket can be worn over a sari or over shorts, paired with a tee or with a choli. 

What colours and prints will be in vogue this season?

Metallics, like, gold, bronze and silver will work well adding drama and support to colours like rich red, ivory, deep purple, teal and emerald. As far as prints are concerned, enlarged paisley prints will rule the season. 

What textiles and silhouettes will be creating buzz in the fashion circuit?

Silhouettes that are shorter on the front with longer backs will be trending. Furthermore, vertical paneled pieces with sheer and opaque offsetting each other will be in vogue. As for textiles, I feel pressed pleats in gold, bronze and silver will be hot favourite. Pleats in short colours of teal, deep purple and gold will have a fashion moment too! 

What according to you are the topmost fashion trends this year?

I’m not a trends person at all. I follow what I feel like wearing. I like my clothes to be passed on as heirloom pieces. Nothing makes me happier than a mother telling me how her daughter wore her clothes on her wedding day. Having said that, I think sheer pyjamas with bright traditional embroidered hemlines are a great way to present traditional workmanship with a global silhouette. These can easily be worn with a tee, a shirt or a gherdaar—from evening wear to a mehendi ceremony or a wedding reception.

What are your views on deconstructive silhouettes and unisexual fashion?

Androgyny is my forte. There is nothing like a man’s white shirt on a woman’s petite figure. I love borrowing from a man’s wardrobe. At the same time I love pastels, saris, kurtas and sheers. Being a woman in fashion today is amazing. We can have the best of both worlds.  

What is your fashion philosophy?

Keeping it simple is my mantra. I often see an ensemble and feel I can make five out of one. ‘Edit’ is my favorite word. While I love many layers, I also love when one can wear it as separates. Fashion is one of the few applied arts with a commercial aspect to it. I believe it’s a balance between the two worlds that can make it all come together.  It’s this balance that I strive to achieve. What I present at my show, my buyers and stores should want to buy.

What is your take on changing consumer tastes?

The only 'constant' in fashion is change. At the same time, there are classic timeless pieces that are beautiful and should remain the way they are. It’s the poise between the two that one needs to achieve. 

Replicating Society--Designer Urvashi Kaur believes, fashion is nothing but a mirror to the society, reflecting its nuances in the most honest way

Urvashi Kaur (center)

Fashion designer Urvashi Kaur is known for her sharp interest in various types of fabrics and colours. She yearns to harvest fresh ideas pertaining to the present socio, economic and cultural status of the contemporary society through her designs. She thrives on the zest to constantly experiment with different facets of fashion by bending genres; and the final outcomes are always enthralling.

Motivated to revitalize the country’s effervescent textiles, Kaur blends the spheres of ethnic with the modern, which leads her to earn critical applause and a venerated league of clientele for her designs. She is also known for developing relationships with many NGO’s by generating and offering employment opportunities to women and endorsing the improvement of handloom fabrics.

What inspires your designs?

My last collection, titled 'Semah' has been inspired by the three unified states of human nature — the mind (as knowledge and thought), the heart (through the expression of feelings, poetry and music) and the body (by activating life). It is Sufi in its deepest of essence.  

What is your design philosophy?

My design beliefs are all about thinking globally but acting locally.

What does your creation reflect?

My creations in this collection reflect the Sufi traditions across the globe through its art and culture. 

What new techniques and materials are you using?

The techniques in this collection involve engineered placements of twisted tie/dye that evoke Bandhej. Mosaic styled geometric patterns derived by hand block prints paired with pleating techniques also surfaced in my work. I have also used shell buttons and wooden beads on the versatile separates with touches of volume and movement in drapes that set a dramatic rhythm.

What does fashion mean to you?

Fashion to me means evoking a sense of simplicity and still being stylishly smart that catches the eye without trying too hard. My collections could be worn by anybody as it has fluidity, movement and ease in it. 

How has the Indian fashion industry shaped your outlook towards fashion?

More than the fashion industry, it is the indigenous handlooms, weaves and textiles of India that have inspired me, along with numerous techniques that find expression in our traditional costumes such as hand tucking, rouching, tie and dye, block printing etc. The silhouettes in my collection are also inspired from Indian traditional silhouettes but have been modified for a more universal market.

What’s in the pipeline for your fans?

Many prominent online collaborations such as ‘Pernia’s pop up’ and tie ups with new stores in India and abroad such as ‘anthropology’ are in the pipeline for my fans .The brand is increasing its presence pan-India as well as in the international daises like in Japan and the US. We are also increasing our presence in the Middle East.

Who is your favourite model?

It is very difficult to name one favorite model. However I would like to name a few like, Preeti Dhata, Laxmi Rana and Sonalika Sahay.

Any fashion brands that you really adore?

The international brands I adore are Mary Katrantzou, Serbian label Roksanda Ilincic and Peter Pilotto. I admire the French label Celine (Céline Vipiana) and Stella McCartney too.  Greco-Austrian Marios Schwab, Vivienne Westwood, Roland Mouret and Alexander McQueen are my favourites too. In India I am a fan of Rajesh Pratap, Payal Pratap, Abraham and Thakore, Pankaj and Nidhi, Pero, AM:PM, Cell Design and Gaurav Jai Gupta to name a few.

Tell us about your personal style.

Eclectic is the word that describes my personal style most aptly.

What fashion trends do you foresee for the upcoming months?

For the upcoming months the fashion trends I foresee are prints, pleats, sheer, checks and stripes, whites and minimalism.

Who wears your collection?

My collection is very commercially viable as it is affordable and easily wearable. Recently Neha Dhupia, Nandita Das, Dia Mirza, Tisca Chopra, Gul Panag and singer Sonal Kalra have all taken to the brand. 

Way back when you were a student, what inspired you? How did you decide upon this career?

Rohit Khosla inspired me as a designer. My mother who is an artist also inspired me greatly. Then my foray into theater was a defining moment and finally creating costumes for theater productions led me to choose fashion designing as a career. 

The Closet Staple--The wide-legged pants are making news in the world of fashion. It is indeed a must-have for your wardrobe this season

Fashion’s most loved era, the 70s is back on the streets with wide-legged pants conquering wardrobes of every fashionista. From denims, to satin and khadi, this long, slender, flared up garment is here to stay and how! One could wear this with delicate sheers, crop tops, cropped jackets, etc; also, these pants work with everything from heels to oxfords.

Wide-legged trousers can be gracefully paired with a button-up shirt or a short kurta. Pick a pant that sits well on the hips. The length of the pants is very important; let them just about skim the ground, with the front of your shoe showing.

Look and feel:

These days, flowy palazzo pants and well cut tunics are quite popular in the fashion circuit. Light-weight fabrics like sheer chiffons, georgettes, crepes go well for this style. Monochrome palazzos work best but sometimes playing around with small prints on satins also gives a nice edgy silhouette.

The current fashion weeks saw various versions of the wide-legged pants making a comeback. Designers like Krishna Mehta and Manish Malhotra introduced sharara pants, ghagra pants and palazzos in ethnic printed silks. It did not take long for these to hit the regular market. There is a wide range to choose from. Pick between slightly fitted at the hips to flaring at the bottom.

P.S--depending on the occasion, select the fabrics. For formal occasions, stiff fabrics like suiting materials and woolen fabrics like tweed and hound’s-tooth should be adorned. If you are styling a more casual or informal look, flowy fabrics like georgette, cotton, cotton blends and lighter silks work best. Also, keeping in mind your body type, you must select the style of wide-legged pants. For pear shaped bodies, it's best to stick to pants, which have more flair at the bottom, so that it creates an illusion of a slimmer waist. The flair can be achieved with a bias cut, or with box pleats (which have to be shaped at the hips). For very slim bodies, pants should be better shaped and the flair should be minimum.

Koovs.com

The top tale:

For a casual chic look, a basic tank top tucked in with a waist belt over it, looks fabulous. These pants are very versatile, depending on your body type you could choose from fitted tops and ganjis, to wrap tops, which flatter all body types, or layer with cropped jackets. If you are blessed with a flat tummy, try a crop top. Avoid oversized tops, so you don’t look like you stepped out of bed!

Nonetheless, fitted tops look best if the flair is wide. Razor backs and fitted three quarter sleeved tops suit the look. In case of slimmer pants, you can pair them with waistcoats and tank tops, which needn't be too fitted.

Accentuate with accessories:

Depending on the occasion, zero down upon the accessories. It’s best to underplay the jewellery if it’s a formal setup. Wear a chunky ring or a pair of blobby earrings with a waistcoat to look sophisticated; also, try a flat gold choker with a kurta. For casual occasions, scarves are an amazing option. Also, thin silver bangles in a cluster would brighten up a casual look. but, I would suggest, this season go electric with chunky neck pieces and oversized bracelets. Contrast jewellery in pastels and gold will look very modern and classy. If you want the pants to be the statement, keep the accessories delicate and minimal. Pick between an oversized clutch for the evening or a sling/messenger bag for the day.

Of trending prints:

Prints are always fun to play with. Picking the right cuts and prints according to the body structure can make all the difference. Floral, geometric and small vintage prints are currently in vogue. Also, lay your hands on Aztec prints, animal prints and floral patterns!

For the longest time, we have been seeing our traditional prints like kalamkari, block prints, etc in full-flared pants. Apart from this, even the hound’s-tooth print in woolen, silk, cotton and satin suits various looks. A quirky print like the moustache and camera on brighter bases works magically for someone who wants to make a statement. However, for someone looking to cover their extra pounds, geometric patterns works wonders! Apart from prints, even dip-dye pants look very appealing, but remember it should be a soft colour merge, to add some height; also, it can be a solid colour block for someone taller.

Advocator of rural fashion--She is a textile revivalist. From upholding the philosophy of art from rural India to reproducing its artistic taste on her clothes, fashion designer Aneeth Arora is a multifariously talented designer

Aneeth Arora

Her approach towards fashion is instinctive and she would rather call herself an artist than a fashion designer. One of the most talented, young designers on the block, Delhi-based, Aneeth Arora has come a long way in the fashion industry. From witnessing dreary response from the spectators at her very first show in 2007 to opening up her new collection to a choc-a-block hall filled with fashion enthusiasts in 2014, cheering and celebrating her magnificent work, Arora dares to bend genres and yet carve out a niche in the realm of fashion.  

Her silhouettes are classy and understated; her relaxed and untailored approach to layering, capacious yet not overwhelming, casts a vintage look to her garments. Also, her colour palette that mostly comprises of muted hues like pale mustard, white, black, dark blue and beige makes her clothes look all the more sophisticated with powerful, under lying drifts of the rural spirit.

Fashion philosophy: when it comes to fashion, my ideologies are based on the belief that I should be able to emulate whatever I observe around me, which strikes a cord with my fashion sensibilities in a wearable form to people. I travel a lot of rural India and I am a very observant traveler. I try to absorb as much of local aesthetics as I can because I feel rural India is the real trend-setter and its gorgeous whimsicality has been my muse since time immemorial.

Changing consumer tastes: I am a firm believer of the fact that every single person has their very own fashion appreciation pattern. So, my only conscious attempt in the whole dynamics of ‘changing consumer taste’ is to provide clothes to people that will clout them to re-think their perceptiveness. I am not here to alter mindsets; I am just her to make an impact.

Latest on the rack:  My Fall/Winter collection truly lived up to the very essence of the season—for the very first time, every single garment is made of wool. We sourced wool from various corners of India, be it Kashmir or Kulu and the textile was hand-woven.  Also, we tied up with an Italian company to produce hand-made wool jersey for us. The modus operandi of this collection was to keep the tradition of hand-made craftsmanship alive by juxtaposing artisans and artistry from different corners of the world.

Business of fashion: I feel over the period of five years, people have become overtly sensitive towards age-old traditions and crafts of our country; not only in India, but on a global forum too, traditional techniques and art forms are being much appreciated. Since our foray is hand-crafted textiles, this has helped in putting us on a more comprehensive pedestal. This is the perfect time for brands like ours to grow and evolve.

Wearability vs. trends: Péro is all about wearable clothing; so we never really had to struggle to balance trends. We aim at culling out inspirational tales from rural India and portray them in our outfits; so the trends that come out, consequentially are always balanced.

Future plans: I take one day at a time and try to make the most of it. If, you ask me about the next collection, I would say, it’s an ongoing process and we are always working on the ‘next’ collection.

The brand essence: Péro means ‘to wear’ in Marwari. The brand symbolises and celebrates the beauty of traditional, hand-made Indian craft. Every piece that we make is touched by many artisans before they hit the racks. So, each garment is enthused with unique adroitness and taste. The main aspiration is to keep the roots alive.

The Péro woman: A woman who is very sensitive towards what she wears will wear my clothes. She would choose comfort over style and would want to feel the beauty of the garment; she would not pick up a garment just on face-value, but would pick up attires to know the hidden tales behind its birth. She would let the pieces interact with her. She would treat the whole experience in a poetic way.

Source of inspiration: I pick up strands of creativity from everything that I see; it could be good music or great food too. Small things on a rugged road to the torn weave on a road-side beggar—everything around me fills me up with vision and spark.

Favourite designers: I had interned with Abraham and Thakore and I love their take on textiles; the simplicity in their work, which results in procuring amazingly chic outfits, leaves me waiting for their next collection, always! I also look up to Sabyasachi Mukherji; the way he has done is branding is remarkable. Also, his ways of combining techniques is quite noteworthy too. I also admire Rajesh Pratap Singh.

In your comfort zone--Indulging in the subtle joys of a spa at your own abode sounds not only relaxing and soothing but convenient too!

Amidst the hustle-bustle of our hectic lives, we often tend to ignore the well being of our skin and hair. Blame it on the sedentary lifestyles or just being lazy, we take ourselves for granted! And with all the dust, pollution and humidity that we have to deal with everyday, I suggest, you better wake up and smell the coffee-our skin and hair needs regular nourishment to remain healthy and radiant.

So what if you don’t get time to hit the spa or salon for beautification; today you can create your own spa at home. Indulge in some self pampering as I guide you on how to get spa treatments done at home with some simple steps.

To emulate a spa at your own home you should keep some basic ingredients, oils and tools ready. For instance, tweezers, sponges, face steamer, etc. Steam helps to open pores and oxygenate the skin; it also works wonders for blackhead extraction and dead skin removal. Also products like cleanser, scrub and moisturizer are a must-have. Indulging in a good body scrub comes handy too but don’t forget the pair of exfoliating gloves!

Also oils like apricot, almond, olive and sesame are good to have, for they bestow glow and smoothness to the skin in abundance. Curd, gram flour, rose water and lime coupled with walnut powder and fuller’s earth are of great help when it comes to exfoliating the skin. Make sure to have cotton pads cut to eye’s size to treat dark under eye problems or puffy eyes problem; these pads can be soaked in fresh cucumber juice and water before application. Furthermore, some good aromatic oil like jasmine, lavender and eucalyptus can be of good use too, with their own set of therapeutic properties. Also sea salts can work magically on sore feet and hands. Also, do keep some good incense sticks or diffuser to make the whole experience more vibrant and aromatic. Using some good fragrant candles can be a brilliant idea!

Now, when it comes to facials and massaging, one should take extra care. Consult an expert before you start your own thing; the pressure stimulation process should be precise because excessive pressure can lead to sore muscles and spasms. Undue pressure can also lead to triggering of pain.

Know the basics:

Secret Ingredient: One of the best skin-smoothing ingredient can be found in the dairy aisle, at your nearest supermarket. The lactic acid in milk softens skin better than most super-fancy potions, which is why spa-pros recommend pouring a few cups of milk in your bath. After a long soak, your body will feel buttery soft.

Quick spa recipe: Mix coarse sea salt or brown or white sugar with enough olive oil or grape seed oil to easily spread it on your skin. And always scrub after washing your body with soap; the oils will sink into clean skin and hydrate it.

Three steps facial: To begin with, microwave three damp washcloths for 30 seconds, and  use one to clean your face after each step. Firstly, run hot water in a sink and stand over it with a towel draped over your head for a few minutes (the steam softens your skin) and then wash your face. Next, scrub your face with a product containing both round beads and a chemical exfoliant like, salicylic acid or lactic acid. Lastly, slather on a hydrating face mask, or use a couple of teaspoons of raw honey, which locks in moisture and has antimicrobial properties. Wait for fifteen minutes and wipe it off.