The Fashionomical--Fashion designer Jenjum Gadi has been creating quite a buzz in the fashion industry with his edgy imagination, finding its resting place in luxurious fabrics

Jenjum Gadi

Fashion designer Jenjum Gadi finds his inspiration in the minutest of things that nature has to offer. And this time the incredible world of insects found its way in the fashion circuit through his designs.

What inspires you?

This time around, I took insects as my source of inspiration as I find them to be extremely interesting; I am also a firm believer of the fact that splendid beauty can be found in the worst of ugliness and also if nature has created them than I am pretty sure they also must be playing an important role in balancing the environment.

Tell us about the cuts and fabrics you incorporated in your pieces…

Insects as inspiration were already too complicated so I kept the cuts very simple as I didn’t want to complicate it further. As far as the fabrics are concerned, I incorporated a lot of organza, satin and flat chiffon.

What is your design philosophy?

For me it is all about keeping your eyes wide open because you never know when the next inspiration will strike you. So it’s always good to go with the flow and never combat your imagination.

What does your creation reflect?

My creation reflects my childhood, my mood, my experience in life so far and everything else that surrounds me.

How has the Indian fashion industry shaped your outlook towards fashion over the years?

The fashion business in India is really growing at a supremely fast face and so is the competition. It is in fact quite tough to be at the right place at the right point of time. What I have learnt here is that focusing on your passion should be pivotal.

What is the future of couture in India?

When you say couture in India, it mostly means heavy Indian outfits for weddings and festivals. So as long as we have the fervor of festivities and weddings going on in India, the couture domain will keep rising. However I doubt if Western couture will work in India since the very essence of it contradicts with our occasions.

Who is your favourite model?

It keeps changing with every season of fashion. But, currently I adore Bhumika.

Any fashion brands that you really adore?

I absolutely love Zara and Prada.

What fashion trends do you foresee for the upcoming months?

I feel lots of prints in various formats will take over the fashion scene in the upcoming months.

Tell us about your personal style.

My personal style is very versatile; I like to try and wear almost everything. Sometimes it could be happy and bright, sometimes it’s moody and dull and yet again at times its soft punk and sometimes it is classic too!

What was your first design? Do you have any interesting anecdotes in the making of your first piece?

I don’t really remember by first design but yes I do remember my first sketch. It looked like a joke; if you see it, you would laugh till your stomach hurts. Nevertheless it holds a special place in my life (smiles).

Best piece of style advice you ever received?

Not really an advice but perhaps a compliment – someone told me that I am born as a stylist. It meant a lot to me.

And what pieces of style advice you happily ignore?

All styling related advice my father has to offer, I conveniently choose to ignore it. For instance, don’t wear faded denim, no lather jackets, no accessories and the list goes on…

Who wears your collection?

Real women who take fashion as seriously as their careers!

How does the business of fashion look like today?

Fashion business is really growing in India, which you can clearly make out from the number of fashion weeks and exhibitions we have here. And this trend is only going to aggravate further.

An ode to Indian Cinema--designer Nida Mahmood delights her fans with her collection, inspired by the effervescence of Indian cinema

Nida Mahmood

Blending the most basic elements of life with high-end fashion, enveloped in different layers of Indian culture and sprinkled with vibrancy, designer Nida Mahmood is all about juxtaposing art with fashion. Her garments procure a happy outburst of colours and there is a certain sense of eccentricity in her designs. She shares her passion, aesthetic values and future plans...

What inspired your designs this time?

My spring-summer collection for 2014 is inspired by the 100 glorious years of Indian cinema. This collection is a manifestation of the larger-than-life grandeur of Indian cinema. Primarily a digitally designed collection, it spans within three major design languages essentially revolving around the line of art. This collection sees interesting mirror imaging of intensely intricate designs.

Tell us about the cuts and fabrics you incorporated in your pieces… 

The major silhouettes are variations of the mullet in shirts, skirts and dresses. Shoulders are prominent in the collection; be it in terms of sharp shoulders in summer jackets or as textural embroidery highlighting the shoulder. Plenty of breezy summer silhouettes have surfaced in the collection. A lot of tucks and pleats and subtle dart manipulations add to the stylization of the collection too. Also collars have been given importance.

What new techniques and materials are you using?  

Spring/Summer 2014

Fabrics used range from handlooms from various parts of India, to several kinds of fine count power loom cottons and rayon, light-weight silks and georgettes and some lycra based fabrics too.

What does fashion mean to you?

Fashion is a mere paraphrase of art to me.

How do you blend traditional aesthetics with modern design?

India cool is my line of thought. Indian culture with a modern take is what it takes to blend the two together.

Most fashion designers are now diversifying into other areas besides fashion, for instance your association with watches, the liquor industry, etc; and collaborating with other industries. What’s your take on this and how important is it to diversify for creative expression as well as to scale up the business?

Well, I am an artist, so I endorse this view completely. I have had many associations in other areas over the past years; for instance, many art installations, furniture design, interiors, home décor, etc. I am designing weddings for Taj Vivanta at the moment and revamping a cinema hall in the heart of south Delhi. I have also been writing for many years on art and fashion and many more such things.

What is the future of couture in India?

Couture will soar high. It is already taking different forms but this is one space that will grow into many manifestations.

What fashion trends do you foresee for the upcoming months?

Spring/Summer 2014

Mullet silhouette is big, boxy shoulders, cropped tops, closed collared shirts, bow ties, brogues; etc will be trending in a big way!

How does cultural potpourri surface in your work?

It is the most intrinsic part of my work. I am deeply inspired by culture, especially Indian culture. I am never preachy in my work but you will always find humour in it.

What is the essence of your designing?

I enjoy spinning the boring and mundane into the most dramatic forms. The regular suddenly have wings in my work and take a whole new avatar. For instance, a simple cup of chai was the inspiration behind High On Chai which brought anti fashion to the fashion scene for the first time ever. Tiny matchboxes created the collection Maachis, and Capt. Mast Qalandar was motorized flying ant – a reincarnation of an old vintage bike flying through time and space on his time machine called vdo gaga!

Like Quirky?--Wear those bold animal prints, tribal patterns and geometric blocks to be the ‘it’ girl

Lipstick Print Dress by Satya Paul

Quirky motifs are here to stay and how! The fashion dais this season will witness the best of quirk and pop. Be it neon-shaded lip colours or bold zodiac prints, geometrical prototypes or tribal patterns--the fashion industry is tripping on the eccentricity of the quirk factor. The decorative motifs of leaves, birds, rabbits and butterflies have arrested  fantasy of fashionistas in a big way. From Bollywood divas to international fashion icons, pretty much everybody is embracing these chic yet boho motifs to the hilt.

The tropical print is one of the biggest trends this season since it’s colourful, vibrant and compliments most body types. This is one trend that can uplift your mood. But remember, If the motifs are loud, the base should be muted.  

Ink Blot Saree by  Satya Paul

Motifs like, mustache, paisleys, toads, birds and owls are trending high. Motifs can be worn as separates, like a toad-printed shirt or a blouse or they can be worn individually as accessories like a mustache brooch or a ring. Again, the important factor lies in not wearing too many different types of motifs at the same time; the essence gets lost here.  Interestingly, motif blouses can now be paired with Indian ensembles. For instance a bird motif blouse in pop colours can be worn with a lace sari. Not only does it help one break free from the regular blingy blouse, but also adds character to the look.

Quirk guru says:
"In fashion opposites always attract, so match quirk with subtle shades. Don’t over accessorize. If the print is strong, then wear bare minimum accessories. When I wear my favorite lipstick dress, I complement it with a matching neon lip colour and statement earrings"--says ace fashion designer Masaba Gupta.

"Using quirky printed short cropped tops with bright coloured maxi dresses or palazzo pants can make any lady look like a stunner. Or perhaps using a printed scarf with monochrome clothing can work wonders too. Also doing print-on-print can be fun and multidimensional, provided it’s balanced properly"--avers designer Sandya Shah.